Buying a used pop up

[Clifton Tesh]

So, after many talks with my wife and my wallet, we have decided to start small and affordable. Our first "rv" purchase will be a used pop up. I'm going with one from a private owner and not a dealer because, well, I've got $4000 to spend and I'm not wanting to finance nothing.

What pop ups should I stay away from and what should I check out on the ones we look at?

I've seen a lot of them where the roof sags in the middle, is this normal or is something missing in the structural support?

Any info y'all can give would be helpful. I know there's a lot of questions I should ask and haven't, so feel free to answer the questions I don't know I need to ask.

 

[FortForever]

I would suggest signing up for a forum called popupportal. It's the best source of information with tons of knowledgeable people. There is even a section devoted to pre-purchase questions. Also check lists on things to look for, but plenty of great folks there to input on anything specific you are considering.

Having owned four pop-ups and purchased them all used, I could get into a very lengthy discussion of preferences and potential problems, but way to much to post here.

The sag you are referring to is on ABS roofs from the late 90's on Coleman models. Mostly ones with a/c and only one support instead of the needed two. Many people will tell you steer clear of ABS roofs, but if you know what you're dealing with they have positives. I personally set out to purchase one last time.

With $4k to play with, you can get something much newer than the ABS Coleman roof models, anyway. Remember, with any rv, of any kind, water is the enemy. Check every cabinet and feel the floor all the way to the back wall for soft spots. Feel over roofs the same way, other than ABS - concentrate on corners or seams and try to press in.

I don't care for lift systems that are built into the floor of the camper (primarily goshen) because, in the event of any kind of leak, the wood that supports the lift system can be compromised.

So, those are main points. There is lots more to look for, but definitely check out the popupportal. Good luck!

 

[bama_ed]

Hiya Clifton.

I had a traditional canvas Jayco popup for 10 years and now have an Aliner which I still consider as a hard-sided popup.

It would help to know the year/maker/model of what you are looking at. Some Coleman/Fleetwood popups had roof issues for models before 2004 or so. A little bit of roof sag is normal (very little, not much). If there is an AC unit on top (which I hope there is) it depends on if the roof was braced/wired for an OE AC or a later add-on.

The main enemy in a used popup is water damage/intrusion. You want to check under the flooring for any signs of rotten sub-floor. The canvas might have a leak so look for mildew or water stains on the inside of the popup.

I would recommend that the current owner show you everything from start to stop. In other words, it should be closed up when you arrive. Have them crank the roof up, set up the interior, and turn on/start all the appliances (hot water heater, cassette potty, fridge, stoves, etc. if equiped). Tires need to be replaced if they are older than 5 years (all tires have a manufacturing date code stamped on them-don't forget the spare too). Popups are low maintenance but you need to keep the axle greased (I get mine serviced every 2-3 years).

How has it been stored? Outside or inside? Was it winterized and if so how (air blow the lines for fill with rv antifreeze)? Have them hitch it to verify all the wiring works (brakes, blinkers, reverse). Does it have a deep cell battery included? Does it have hydraulic brakes or electric brakes? Hydraulic is primarily a Jayco decision, the rest mostly use electric brakes. Trailer brakes are required on all trailers over a low weight limit like 2,000 pounds. If electric you need a brake controller for your tow vehicle as well to operate the trailer brakes (your tow vehicle brakes can't be the sole brake mechanism).

There should be a sticker/medallion/label inside the camper that lists the weight numbers (GVWR and UVW and/or CCW). Basically the the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating is the maximum amount of weight your camper WITH your stuff in it can carry. It is driven by your axle rating. That is made up of two numbers: the Unloaded Vehicle Weight (empty weight from the manufacturer) and Cargo Carrying Weight/Capacity (how much your "stuff" weighs). GVWR = CCW + UVW. You might encounter similar acronyms/numbers but most GVWR run between 2,000-3,5000 pounds (can go higher or lower).

Your tow vehicle should have more towing capacity than the GVWR but if memory serves you're a car/truck guy so I'm confident you have that part well in hand.

So tell us year/make/model and if you can share any pix, that would help us provide advice.

Good luck!

Bama Ed

PS - hopefully other pop-up DIS'sers like amcc will come along and add their advice.

PPS - if the canvas is bad, it can be completely replaced with brand new canvas but that's a $1,000-2,000 item from companies like Bear Creek Canvas. They have size/dimensions for all recent models going back decades or can create a new one from your leftovers. So consider that in the price you negotiate if needed.

 

[Clifton Tesh]

I would suggest signing up for a forum called popupportal. It's the best source of information with tons of knowledgeable people. There is even a section devoted to pre-purchase questions. Also check lists on things to look for, but plenty of great folks there to input on anything specific you are considering.

Having owned four pop-ups and purchased them all used, I could get into a very lengthy discussion of preferences and potential problems, but way to much to post here.

The sag you are referring to is on ABS roofs from the late 90's on Coleman models. Mostly ones with a/c and only one support instead of the needed two. Many people will tell you steer clear of ABS roofs, but if you know what you're dealing with they have positives. I personally set out to purchase one last time.

With $4k to play with, you can get something much newer than the ABS Coleman roof models, anyway. Remember, with any rv, of any kind, water is the enemy. Check every cabinet and feel the floor all the way to the back wall for soft spots. Feel over roofs the same way, other than ABS - concentrate on corners or seams and try to press in.

I don't care for lift systems that are built into the floor of the camper (primarily goshen) because, in the event of any kind of leak, the wood that supports the lift system can be compromised.

So, those are main points. There is lots more to look for, but definitely check out the popupportal. Good luck!

Will definitely look into popup portal. Thanks for the info!

 

[Clifton Tesh]

Hiya Clifton.

I had a traditional canvas Jayco popup for 10 years and now have an Aliner which I still consider as a hard-sided popup.

It would help to know the year/maker/model of what you are looking at. Some Coleman/Fleetwood popups had roof issues for models before 2004 or so. A little bit of roof sag is normal (very little, not much). If there is an AC unit on top (which I hope there is) it depends on if the roof was braced/wired for an OE AC or a later add-on.

The main enemy in a used popup is water damage/intrusion. You want to check under the flooring for any signs of rotten sub-floor. The canvas might have a leak so look for mildew or water stains on the inside of the popup.

I would recommend that the current owner show you everything from start to stop. In other words, it should be closed up when you arrive. Have them crank the roof up, set up the interior, and turn on/start all the appliances (hot water heater, cassette potty, fridge, stoves, etc. if equiped). Tires need to be replaced if they are older than 5 years (all tires have a manufacturing date code stamped on them-don't forget the spare too). Popups are low maintenance but you need to keep the axle greased (I get mine serviced every 2-3 years).

How has it been stored? Outside or inside? Was it winterized and if so how (air blow the lines for fill with rv antifreeze)? Have them hitch it to verify all the wiring works (brakes, blinkers, reverse). Does it have a deep cell battery included? Does it have hydraulic brakes or electric brakes? Hydraulic is primarily a Jayco decision, the rest mostly use electric brakes. Trailer brakes are required on all trailers over a low weight limit like 2,000 pounds. If electric you need a brake controller for your tow vehicle as well to operate the trailer brakes (your tow vehicle brakes can't be the sole brake mechanism).

There should be a sticker/medallion/label inside the camper that lists the weight numbers (GVWR and UVW and/or CCW). Basically the the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating is the maximum amount of weight your camper WITH your stuff in it can carry. It is driven by your axle rating. That is made up of two numbers: the Unloaded Vehicle Weight (empty weight from the manufacturer) and Cargo Carrying Weight/Capacity (how much your "stuff" weighs). GVWR = CCW + UVW. You might encounter similar acronyms/numbers but most GVWR run between 2,000-3,5000 pounds (can go higher or lower).

Your tow vehicle should have more towing capacity than the GVWR but if memory serves you're a car/truck guy so I'm confident you have that part well in hand.

So tell us year/make/model and if you can share any pix, that would help us provide advice.

Good luck!

Bama Ed

PS - hopefully other pop-up DIS'sers like amcc will come along and add their advice.

PPS - if the canvas is bad, it can be completely replaced with brand new canvas but that's a $1,000-2,000 item from companies like Bear Creek Canvas. They have size/dimensions for all recent models going back decades or can create a new one from your leftovers. So consider that in the price you negotiate if needed.

The main one I have in my sights right now is a 2006 starcraft model 2403.

There's a couple others but that's the one I really want.

 

[bama_ed]

On brands:

I'm partial to Jayco popups but they bought Starcraft at some point in the past. Don't know if they were part of Jayco in 2006.

The Coleman/Fleetwoods are no longer manufactured and replacement parts (if needed) don't exist. But that's not an issue for pups normally. (You see the Coleman name on TT now but that strictly licensed to a different manufacturer now).

In newer models, Flagstaff is a Forest River brand identical to their Rockwood line. These popups were less expensive new and debate was if they were as good as the Jaycos. I ended up with a Jayco brand new because I had a Jayco dealer nearby for parts/service.

Bama Ed

 

[Clifton Tesh]

On brands:

I'm partial to Jayco popups but they bought Starcraft at some point in the past. Don't know if they were part of Jayco in 2006.

The Coleman/Fleetwoods are no longer manufactured and replacement parts (if needed) don't exist. But that's not an issue for pups normally. (You see the Coleman name on TT now but that strictly licensed to a different manufacturer now).

In newer models, Flagstaff is a Forest River brand identical to their Rockwood line. These popups were less expensive new and debate was if they were as good as the Jaycos. I ended up with a Jayco brand new because I had a Jayco dealer nearby for parts/service.

Bama Ed

A guy I work with swears by jayco. He wouldn't own anything else.

 

[Clifton Tesh]

Went with a used 2000 coleman Timberlake. Owner had documentation from the day he bought it all the way up until its last service in March this year, he was the only owner besides his dad. Needs a new sink faucet but those aren't too expensive so I figured why not.

Canvas was replaced in 2012. No sight of moisture in the camper and it went up and down perfectly.

Now I just have to outfit my tow vehicle with a brake controller and transmission cooler.

I'm towing with a 2012 honda odyssey touring. TV is rated at 3500#, my hitch has a 350# tongue weight and 3500# tow rating so I know all is good on that part. Pups dry weight is 2000# and GVWR is 3000# so I meet the 15% rule.

Can't use weight distribution according to Honda so I didn't include WD weights.

Going to use a good old fashioned friction lock style anti sway since it seems to be the only other thing I can use unless you guys can recommend something better. Looked at electronic anti sway but it didn't look plausible on a single axle trailer.

Now I need to decide on a brake controller and I can't decide between proportional or time delayed. Any advice from the experts is welcome.

I'll post some pictures when I get her home.

 

[FortForever]

Congratulations. Looks like the same floorplan as our 1999 Coleman Nevada, except flipped the other direction.

We also tow with a Honda Odyssey. Our camper dry weight is 2100#. I would recommend adding rear suspension air bags as well. Also, our van, even with the air bags, needs a 6" lift on the hitch. Bought this one, from this seller, as his price is significantly lower than Walmart directly or Amazon.

If you have an ABS roof, and it hasn't been treated, I would make getting Grizzly Grip and coating it, a first priority.

As far as anti sway, a simple inexpensive sway bar on one side is sufficient. And, as you mentioned, transmission cooler and brake controller is a must.

 

[Clifton Tesh]

Congratulations. Looks like the same floorplan as our 1999 Coleman Nevada, except flipped the other direction.

We also tow with a Honda Odyssey. Our camper dry weight is 2100#. I would recommend adding rear suspension air bags as well. Also, our van, even with the air bags, needs a 6" lift on the hitch. Bought this one, from this seller, as his price is significantly lower than Walmart directly or Amazon.

If you have an ABS roof, and it hasn't been treated, I would make getting Grizzly Grip and coating it, a first priority.

As far as anti sway, a simple inexpensive sway bar on one side is sufficient. And, as you mentioned, transmission cooler and brake controller is a must.

It has the insulated aluminum roof fortunately.

And thanks for mentioning the airbags, I have ordered them from etrailer but wasn't sure if it was a necessity.

You also answered my unasked question about the receiver. I asked the seller to measure for me but he's never gotten back with me on it.

Does you know if I need my 2 inch ball or my 1 and 7/8? I have both just don't feel like attaching it when I get there.

 

[FortForever]

Does you know if I need my 2 inch ball or my 1 and 7/8? I have both just don't feel like attaching it when I get there.

Ours is 2"

 

[Clifton Tesh]

Ours is 2"

Thanks!

 

[bama_ed]

That was quick, Clifton. Congrats!

I use the Prodigy P2 controller from Tekonsha.

https://www.etrailer.com/Brake-Cont...MIyL6YxoHi1gIVw7fACh2KMwQzEAQYASABEgJ_yPD_BwE

It's proportional, simple to set up and use, and does what I need it to do. $100 from etrailer. My Suburban was wired for it so it was easy to install - don't know about your Honda.

Bama Ed

 

[Clifton Tesh]

That was quick, Clifton. Congrats!

I use the Prodigy P2 controller from Tekonsha.

https://www.etrailer.com/Brake-Cont...MIyL6YxoHi1gIVw7fACh2KMwQzEAQYASABEgJ_yPD_BwE

It's proportional, simple to set up and use, and does what I need it to do. $100 from etrailer. My Suburban was wired for it so it was easy to install - don't know about your Honda.

Bama Ed

Yeah, I found one that had everything I wanted and when I saw the guy had every service record since 1999, I knew it was well taken care of.

As for the brake controller, I'm gonna have to wire it up all the way but I'm a mechanic so I'm use to this kind of fun stuff. I don't know why Honda didn't have it set up for a brake controller, they require trailer brakes on anything over 1000 pounds.

 

[dmaxphil]

That was fast! Congrats on the new pup. I've always found proportional brake systems to be smoother - check out the P3. Your sway idea sounds like a fine plan. Enjoy.

 

[FortForever]

Yep, no plug and play brake controllers for the Odyssey. I wish they would have at least did that for us.

 

[Clifton Tesh]

Yep, no plug and play brake controllers for the Odyssey. I wish they would have at least did that for us.

Yeah, I have no clue how they could require something but not have the hook ups for it.

 

[Clifton Tesh]

Ended up going with a Tekonsha primus IQ controller mainly because it had a low profile mounting option and I could mount it out of sight of the wife but in a spot that I could still reach it.

It's been in the van almost a week now and I asked her if she noticed it... She had no idea what I was talking about so I guess it's hiding from her real well.

 

[Clifton Tesh]

Got 2 weeks off work, hopefully I get to work on this camper some.

Always find things you didn't catch after you get it home. Fortunately it was nothing expensive.

If I can get the pulleys adjusted so that the roof goes all the way up, I will finally take pictures of it. Right now it's about an inch away from being able to lock the door in place. Apparently this is real common in older campers due to cable stretch.

Got plans on rebuilding the cabinets and counters, putting new vinyl tile down, and eventually making new curtains and seat cushions.

I figure if I can make it look cozy and feel cozy, I won't have to fight the wife so much to get her to come on a camper trip with me.