Me, these two, and a heelan coo: Scotland June 2018

Keep going with the report. I will say, you were writing about DH and DS in ways that I write about my DH and DDs - the good and the less pleasant. That is traveling with kids (and parenting in general).

For instance, when I tell people about our trip to Hawaii for our 20th anniversary, I tell of when youngest DD threw a huge fit (at 10) one night, about how it was the worst vacation ever (because, mind you, there were fish in the lagoon at the Hilton Hawaiian Village hotel). Or how her older sister (at 13) commented 30 minutes later that there were no good places to eat in Honolulu, just steak and seafood places. It was an unpleasant hour or so during our 12 day trip, but it is a very funny story. A lot of people commented that maybe they were too young for the trip. No, they were not too young. They were just tired of being away from home, and had just left the friends that they had met at Aulani and were hungry.

And overall, we had a great time as a family exploring the Big Island and Oahu. And I learned a lot about longer haul trips with my kids - plan better for meal times, move around less (although our ABD isn't following this rule), rest a little more.
 
I read most of the trip reports here. I'm really loving your review and your honesty to tell it like you see it. I've travelled much of the world with my kids who are now grown. Brings back the memories!

My husband and I recently got back from Scotland and as vegans, we were pleasantly surprised that in Edinburgh and Glasgow most restaurants offered at least one substantial vegan option. I'm sorry that the restaurants chosen weren't great for your diet. That would really put a damper on things if it happened day in and out. There was one place though, in Stonehaven that promoted a vegan meal on their whiteboard outside. Turned out to be a plate of a few mixed nuts, white rice, iceberg lettuce and raisons. Well they tried, lol.

Anyway, I'm loving your review style. Thank you.
 
We're considering the same trip with our will-be 5-year-old daughter next year, so this was helpful to read!

Is there anything you would do differently? And are there oppourtunities for downtime? You mention staying at the castle instead of heading to the ship - that sort of thing.

My daughter is extremely active and a great traveler, but I feel like she would really benefit from some time to decompress during the day (sitting quietly with a coloring book or something).

Thanks!
 
Thanks to everyone who has shared their travel with kids stories. I did not expect the level of drama we get with my do sometimes, but it makes for great stories.
I read most of the trip reports here. I'm really loving your review and your honesty to tell it like you see it. I've travelled much of the world with my kids who are now grown. Brings back the memories!

My husband and I recently got back from Scotland and as vegans, we were pleasantly surprised that in Edinburgh and Glasgow most restaurants offered at least one substantial vegan option. I'm sorry that the restaurants chosen weren't great for your diet. That would really put a damper on things if it happened day in and out. There was one place though, in Stonehaven that promoted a vegan meal on their whiteboard outside. Turned out to be a plate of a few mixed nuts, white rice, iceberg lettuce and raisons. Well they tried, lol.

Anyway, I'm loving your review style. Thank you.

I was really surprised by how veg friendly Scotland is. I really think that if ABD had put some thought into it, we could have been well accommodated. And hopefully not with lettuce and raisins.

We're considering the same trip with our will-be 5-year-old daughter next year, so this was helpful to read!

Is there anything you would do differently? And are there oppourtunities for downtime? You mention staying at the castle instead of heading to the ship - that sort of thing.

My daughter is extremely active and a great traveler, but I feel like she would really benefit from some time to decompress during the day (sitting quietly with a coloring book or something).

Thanks!

Going day by day, I do think Edinburgh day is a bit long for kids. You could cut the Brittania or skip Greyfriers Cemetery in favor of a longer lunch. Another option would be to head straight to the family play area in holyrood after the guided tour. It's on the way out. They have dress up stuff and coloring. We didn't really get to take advantage because of the time we spent looking in the rooms in the palace.

At Floors, the cafe is reserved for ABD the whole day and you can relax there. Since your daughter is active, I would skip listening to the lecture on the millennium garden and head right to the play area during the garden tour. It has lots of good climbing stuff.

The travel day has lots of built in downtime on the bus. We brought coloring stuff and books to read. There is a lot of touring, so you might want to give a chance to run outside before heading up to lunch.

On Culloden day we skipped the bike ride and went to the playground followed by a nap.

The last day has archery and highland games and feeding animals, so I don't think you will need to look for extra activity. The farewell dinner runs late, so we were glad we rested before it.
 
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ABD Day 6: Part 2 Dinner with Dolphins

As I mentioned, the afternoon activity on Day 6 is a bike ride along the Caledonian canal. DS cannot ride a bike and we figured vacation was not the place to teach him. That turned out to be a good decision because it gave us some much needed downtime.

From the Mustard Seed, we walked back to the Kingsmill -- stopping off to look in a used book shop and get some cash for guide tips. Our walk took us past a nice looking playground (across from the hotel), so we stopped and played for a bit. They had a lot of interesting playground equipment that you don't see in the US such as a trampoline type thing built into the ground. DS started to get grumpy when another kid pushed in front of him while he was waiting to zip line and, though I could not blame him, we decided this was a sign that it was time to rest. We headed back to our room to decompress. Unfortunatey, DS stubbornly refuses to nap no matter how tired he is, so that was not in the cards. But having some time where he just played with his stuffed toys was enough of a recharge for him. Eventually, he and DH left to try out the Kingmill swimming pool while I stayed in the room to nap.

I was surprised when DS and DH came back fairly quickly. Normally you have to drag DS out of the pool. DS said that he wasn't able to stay in the water long because it was too cold. He also said that the Caledonian pool was better. When we checked into the Kingmill, the manager described the pool as "just enough for a dip," and DS apparently agreed with that assessment.

After swimming, DS and DH got cleaned up and then we all put on nice clothing for our evening activity -- a trip to Fortrose and Rosemarkie Golf Course. I was really excited for this dinner because the golf course is located near Moray Firth, which is well known for its friendly dolphins. (As I mentioned, this ABD itinerary really did include literally everything I wanted to see in Scotland; the logistics of getting to Moray Firth on our own without a car would have been daunting).

Fortrose and Rosemarkie is on the Black Isle, which is actually a peninsula. The drive was not particularly long and it is fairly scenic if you ignore all of the American-style suburban sprawl, which I am always so disappointed to see in other countries. The mystery I was reading takes place in the Highlands and one of the things that the main character comments on is how the area around Inverness has grown in recent years. If both me and an imaginary character say something, then it must be true.

When we arrived at the golf course, we were given time before dinner to hit some golf balls or walk along the beach to see the dolphins. The dolphin viewing was described as "just over there," so I figured we would do both. We started with the dolphins because I said so.

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(Because of the wind, we have one photo with DH's eyes closed and one with mine closed. Since I am writing this report, here's the one where I look decent).

The walk turned out to be close to a mile. With the wind and my son's propensity to stop and pick up every shell on the beach, it took us quite a while to make it out to the lighthouse where the dolphins can usually be spotted. During the whole walk, we did not see one dolphin. I started to worry that maybe they weren't around. But once we reached the lighthouse, there they were. (You can't see them before then because they are on the other side of the tip of the peninsula -- so if you want to find the dolphins, don't give up prematurely). There were at least 2 or 3 dolphins -- maybe more -- leaping out of the water quite acrobatically. They were so much fun to watch, but impossible to photograph. Claire told me that she has dozens of photos of empty ocean. I gave up after 10 shots because my camera battery died. (Here is an article about the dolphins with some photos. https://www.bbc.com/news/uk-scotland-highlands-islands-37009343).

My son was really delighted by the dolphins. He has been whale watching, but had never before seen wild dolphins and he is always excited to add a new animal to his "life list." (He picked up that concept from Wildkratts, a PBS Kids show about animals. Every animal he sees is one more checked of his "to-do" list.)

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After watching the dolphins for awhile, we headed back to the golf club for dinner. On the way back, we were walking against the wind, which was especially tough for DS. Eventually, DH picked him up and carried him. We got back to the golf club just as everyone was going in for dinner.

Dinner was an interesting cultural experience. In the US, I think of golf as a something of a bougie past-time. In Scotland, it is an every-man's game. Fortrose and Rosemarkie was much more like an Elk's Lodge than it was like an American country club. It's always interesting to see these little differences in culture, even in a place that seems pretty similar to the US in many ways.

One interesting fact we learned is that women have only been recently allowed to golf at the course. That fact came up when someone inquired about why the line for the ladies' room was out the door, while the men's room had no line. It's because the ladies' room has just one stall because the club was originally built with no ladies room at all. Single stall ladies rooms (often coupled with multi-stall men's rooms) were something of a trend on this trip, but this was the only time we were provided with a reason for the discrepancy. Anyway, I digress.

Our dinner was served buffet-style in a function room there, which had lovely ocean views. The food was what you might think of as picnic fare here. I forewent the squash lasagna (sigh) in favor of eating a bunch of side salads. If I recall, there were slaws, pasta salads, potato salads, bean salads and actual leafy green stuff salads. After dinner, we ordered our dessert off a menu. I had the Eaton Mess, which was basically the same thing as the pavlova I had eaten the night before, but with the meringue crunched up. (There were other dessert options. I was just very enamored with the meringue after trying it at the Kingmill).

After dinner, we asked Michael if it was too late to hit some golf balls and, sadly, it was. The golf stuff had been cleaned up while we were eating. My suggestion for families who want to try golf and see dolphins is to do things in the opposite order from what we did. Golf first, eat a quick dinner and then head out to see the dolphins. Unlike golf balls, wild dolphins don't get put away while you are eating. Also, don't forget to bring sensible walking shoes. I wore my flats on the bus and then changed into dress boots when we went in for dinner.

After dinner, it was back to the Kingsmill where we once again went straight to bed.
 
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ABD Day 7: Coo Day

All too quickly, it was time for our last day of touring. (The ABD is advertised as 8 days, but all you do on day 8 is go home -- so day 7 was the true last day in my mind). Before having my son, I often spent the last day of vacation being sad that vacation was almost over, rather than actually vacationing. Small children pretty much force you to live in the moment. As far as DS is concerned, there is no time to think about tomorrow when today is hairy coo day. So although the idea that we would have to pack crossed my mind when I first woke up, I quickly suppressed that thought and went about my standard morning routine of coffee and book. I was on track to finish my highland mystery before we left the highlands, something that I knew would bring me a special kind of Type A personality satisfaction.

When DS woke up, we went down to breakfast. DH managed to join us before we had finished, so we stayed to watch him eat. Then we all went out to the bus together for our journey to Rothiemurchus Estate in the Cairngorms. Cairngorms National Park is one of two national parks in Scotland. It was interesting to me that it was only recently established (in 2003) given our long history of national parks here in the US. The ride to the park was about 45 minutes and took us through the town of Aviemore, which reminded me of a New England Ski Town. Claire told us that she had once lived in the area in a cabin with no electricity while working for one of the major hotel chains.

Upon arrival at Rothiemurchus, we were strongly encouraged to use the restroom since the only restroom was a ways from where we would be doing our morning activities. (It was walking distance, but a decent walk up a hill covered in horse "presents.") There was, of course, only one stall in the ladies' room. The men's room also had only one stall, which made me wonder why they didn't just mark both restrooms unisex. But the ladies all dutifully waited in a long line while every gentleman for whom nature called got priority access.

Those who were finished with the restroom gathered outside near the pony pen. It took us all a minute to realize that the electrified fence was not on and that our children were in no danger of being fried. Once that was confirmed, some of the kids were able to lure one of the ponies over for a pat. DS preferred to admire "sweatshirt pony." Throughout Scotland, we saw horses and ponies randomly wearing what looked like little pony hoodies. Now that we had a chance to admire a sweatshirt pony up close, we learned that the sweatshirts were to keep bugs away. Of the 3 ponies in the paddock, I think we can safely assume that this pony is the most delicious (to flies, at least).

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Once we were all assembled, we were divided back into our groups from Floors Castle Day for the mornings activities. Our group was to begin with highland games. After a short journey down hill doing our best to avoid the horse presents (a hopeless cause), we wound up in a large field set up with 5 games. We were then divided into 2 teams and started the competition. Our team, the Bloodthirsty Unicorns, began with the traditional highland game of chicken throwing. That is, of course, where you hurl a rubber chicken at a target. DS managed to get the highest score on our team; I am sure that being able to stand 2 feet closer to the target than everyone else had little to do with it.

Then it was on to tossing the haggis. Apparently, this really is a highland game and it's more challenging than you would think. You basically stand on a bucket and throw the haggis like a discus. (Those with injuries and balance issues were able to modify the event or select a stand-in). Haggis throwing is apparently the province of burly men, so DH and another man of similar stature took top prize.

After hurling our haggis, it was time to toss a caber. There were 4 sizes to choose from, starting from what was basically a twig and moving up to a whole tree. I would have thought that strength would provide an advantage in caber tossing too, but it apparently comes down to technique. DH was the only one to master the end-over-end throw required to take the top score. But I came in second with a caber that landed pointing at 10 o'clock. DS threw his twig with gusto and got points for style, if not for accuracy.

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After we tossed the caber, we flung something else. I cannot remember what it was called, but it was basically a stick with a weight on the end. Big dudes 1 and 2 once again took top honors. (But a couple of the women came pretty darn close to beating them). The games were getting very competitive, but I tried to remember to look around and enjoy the scenery because it was certainly not a bad place to be tossing various objects.

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The final event of the games was a tug-of-war. This was to be the key event because the 2 teams were allegedly tied. (We were told that no matter what, they assign enough points to the tug-of-war to make it the deciding event). Now DS is very competitive and he was starting to fret that we might not win, so I decided to comfort him. I explained that our team was almost certainly going to win because we were the heaviest. I then gestured behind me to where I thought DH was standing. Except that DH was not standing there. He had wandered off and been replaced by a lovely couple from the West Coast. (Really, they were the nicest people). "Holy crap," I thought to myself. "These people are going to think I was calling them fat. Maybe I should apologize. But if I apologize, then that will only confirm that I really was calling them fat. Maybe I should ignore it. But what if they think I was calling them fat." This repeated on loop in my brain throughout the tug-of-war (which we easily won). By that time, it was too late to do anything other than continue to feel awkward, so that is what I did.

DS was very happy that we had won the highland games and chattered away giving us a play-by-play as we headed to our next activity, archery. We have been trying to teach him that gloating is not sportsmanlike, but he has thus far not absorbed the lesson. Perhaps being the child of a woman who randomly insults highland game teammates is a factor.

Anyway, on to archery. When I told DS that we would be doing archery in Scotland, he told me that was a terrible idea because he was only 5 and would probably shoot someone. I am happy to report that did not happen. DS was given his own child-size bow and a target much closer than any of the others and no one was foolish enough to ignore the safety advice about staying behind the shooting line until everyone had spent all their arrows. He got a little frustrated when his early attempts at shooting did not succeed, but the Rothiemurchus estate staff helped him until he was able to actually shoot the target.

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The rest of us were given a few practice rounds before the big archery contest. For the contest, we each got three arrows and the combined score from all 3 was our contest score. (Highest score wins). After everyone had shot their arrows for the contest, I looked around and saw that one of the targets had 3 bulls-eyes. Surely, I thought, that person in the winner. But when everyone announced their scores, no one claimed the bulls-eyes-only target and I somehow wound up the winner. DS was disappointed that he did not win, but I told him that the important thing was that we had both done better than Daddy. That seemed to calm him down.

After archery, we went back up the hill to find that a tent had been set up with a picnic lunch inside. There was soup and sandwiches and salads and various quiches. (The quiches were helpfully marked, "Assorted quiches. Some vegetarian.") Since there was nothing to identify the vegetarian quiches, I took a slice of plain egg quiche on the assumption that meat cannot be invisible. While this was a successful strategy for avoiding meat, it also meant that my lunch was bland. I decided that the best course of action would be to save room for dessert. This turned out to be a great call because the brownies at Rothiemurchus estate are outrageous. I also took a cute little Mickey cupcake, but wound up eating only one bite so as not to fill up valuable tummy space that would be better devoted to brownie.

Once lunch was finished, we were loaded back on the bus for our hairy coo safari. We were joined by a ranger who informed us that the safaris are normally done in a 4x4. I think that definitely would have added to the experience. Driving around the great outdoors in a big bus is to actually being in the great outdoors as watching the great outdoors on tv is to being in the great outdoors. (This analogy falls apart when motion sickness is taken into account because I have never experienced motion sickness sitting on my couch). Before too long, we pulled up to the area where the red deer are kept and we piled out to feed them.

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We were not actually permitted to go in the enclosure. We fed the deer through the mesh fence. I was worried that DS would be disappointed, but he was too busy trying to feed every deer to notice. Watching DS feed animals is always amusing because he narrates the experience. In this case, every time a deer ate from his hand, DS went "num num num" until the deer was finished. For their part, the deer hummed while they ate, so our soundtrack was "num hmmm num hmmm" until the food was gone.

After a very short visit with the deer, it was time to visit the highland cows (or "heelan coo," as they say in Scotland). We were not permitted to touch the coo because they are apparently bloodthirsty killers. (In all seriousness, cows are the most dangerous animal in Britain. They regularly trample those out for a nice walk in the country). Despite their bloodthirsty nature, heelan coo are incredibly photogenic, resembling bovine Justine Biebers circa 2009.

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We spent a few minutes admiring the Biebers and then got back in the bus to head for our next stop. On the way back to the bus, DS noticed that Michael had his camera out and:

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(Scottish beef with American ham).
 
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ABD Day 7: Part 2

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("Baby, baby, baby, moo")

When we left off, we had just finished admiring some cows with fancy hairdos. Our final stop at Rothiemurchus was Loch an Eilein -- a lake with a ruined castle in the middle. This activity is billed as a hike, but it was actually a short walk. The distance was less than one would travel if one got a bad parking spot at the grocery store. We had time to putter around the lake for a bit taking photos before we headed back to the bus. I would have loved to have time for an actual hike here because it was a lovely location. I am not sure what the rush was since we wound up back on the bus a full hour ahead of schedule. My suggestion for ABD would be to divide the group into an easy walk group and a hike group and let those who want to hike take a little more time to explore the area.

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(Why is this castle in a lake? Take the Scotland ABD to find out. Or you could just Google it, I suppose.)

Since we were back on the bus an hour early, that meant we were an hour early getting back to the Kingsmill. We used the extra time to rest and pack. I offered to take DS swimming, but he declined due to water temperature.

The farewell dinner was held at the Kingsmill in a conference room with lovely views of the parking lot. Our family was apparently the only family that did not buy tartan scarves, but Michael and Claire passed out little tartan ribbons to everyone so that no one would be tartan free. The evening began with more bagpipe music. Then some highland dancers performed. DS was disappointed that the dancing was not interactive because he was expecting a chance to perform.

The entertainers took a break while the wait staff came around to take our food and drink orders. We ordered drinks and then I took a look at the menu and saw that the vegetarian option was . . . squash lasagna! If you are keeping count, this was lasagna 3. To put that in numerical terms, of the 9 included lunches and dinners, 1/3 of them were squash lasagna. (Another 1/3 of the meals were some other type of pasta). I got up and took a walk to the bathroom to calm down. Then I came back and ordered the fish entree, hold the fish. DH had the fish with the fish. DS had a cheese sandwich.

While there was a lull in the bagpiping, one of our table mates told my son that he "did not mind being around him." DS asked, "Are there some kids you do mind being around." "Yes," our table mate replied. "Some kids are little brats." DS stared at him for a minute and then said indignantly, "But I am. I AM a little brat." I wondered what DS thought the word brat meant, but I did not get a chance to ask because it was time for the address to the haggis. That's where the bagpiper recites a poem about haggis and then runs his finger over the haggis and licks it (the finger, not the haggis). For whatever reason, DS found this hilarious. The group then gets a chance to taste the haggis. ABD did not provide any vegetarian haggis, so we could not partake.

Eventually our appetizers came out, but our drinks were still nowhere to be found. At some point, I gave up on waiting and just ate my food. Then our main courses came out. Still no drinks. Claire came by and noticed that our table had no beverages and left to check on them. They finally came out just before dessert. Our dessert choices included the sticky toffee pudding we had eaten a few nights before, so I, of course, had to order that. But when it came out, a funny thing happened. I took 2 bites and then had no more room for pudding. I was despondent. If only I had skipped eating the weird fried egg I had been served as an appetizer. But it was too late for that, so all I could do was poke my pudding with a spoon as I fought valiantly to stay awake. DS, meanwhile, was happily chatting away, looking as wide-awake as ever.

After dinner, Michael and Claire ran the slideshow. We told DS he could join the other kids at the front of the room, so he did. Apparently, the twin girls he had played with earlier in the trip invited him to sit by them and he was so excited that they remembered him. As the slideshow ran, you could hear oohs and ahhs from the group and periodically a small voice from the front saying, "Hey, it's me." Once the slideshow and DS's narration were over, I blearily waved at everyone and we went upstairs for bed.
 


Not surprised about the food choices on your trip. I find food is not a highlight on ABD trips. We enjoy tasting the regional culinary delights of the areas we travel and find ABD sometimes thinks most people like a high school cafeteria diet. Thanks for the report.
 
That itinerary sure has changed. Our farewell dinner (the first year the Scotland tour was offered) was in Edinburgh Castle.

Thanks for your detailed trip report. It’s interesting to see how that tour has changed since 2013.
 
That itinerary sure has changed. Our farewell dinner (the first year the Scotland tour was offered) was in Edinburgh Castle.

Thanks for your detailed trip report. It’s interesting to see how that tour has changed since 2013.
I was thinking the same thing! It really has changed a lot. @Jess_S just wondering if there were any surprises in the itinerary that you haven’t mentioned or whether things were pretty much as advertised? You don’t have to give spoilers but just curious as to whether there were any.
 
ABD Day 8 and Post-Day 1

Just like that, our trip was over. But our vacation was not over because we were (accidentally) on our way to Hamsterdam. (I told DS several times that it was pronounced "Amsterdam," but didn't press too hard because I enjoyed hearing him talk about "Hamsterdam").

Because our flight was late morning, we did not need to be ready to leave until around 10 a.m. That gave us plenty of time to get ready for the day, pack the last few odds and ends and eat breakfast together as a family. While we were eating, Claire and Michael came over to say goodbye and DS gave them hugs and said, "See you next year." He was very disappointed when I explained that Michael and Claire are not the guides for every ABD. When it was time to go, we headed to the lobby where Claire had arranged individual cabs for each party. DH got into the front of our cab and then noticed he was sitting at the steering wheel. Our cabbie was good-natured about the mistake. I would guess we are not the first Americans to forget that the steering wheel is on the "wrong" side of the cab in the UK.

Getting to the airport didn't take long. You basically take the road out of town and then turn right at some sheep and there it is. Check-in and security were painless and before too long we were sitting in the waiting area with nearly every other person who went on our ABD. Apparently, we had all booked a layover through Amsterdam. DH had a few pounds left in his pocket, so we frittered them away on candy bars and haggis flavored potato chips (which are vegan, apparently). DH thought it was disgusting that I was eating meat-flavored chips before lunch (or maybe that I was eating meat chips at all), but I wanted to sort-of try haggis before we left Scotland.

Our flight to Amsterdam boarded on time and we were soon on our way. We arrived in Amsterdam in early afternoon. Since we had a 23 hour layover, we planned to head into the city to explore and then spend the night at a hotel. I don't recall whether I told the story of our 23 hour layover in my first post, so I will tell it here. I do not know whether I accidentally booked a flight with a huge layover or if the airline moved our flight. I made the mistake of not monitoring flight changes, so I was not able to recreate the chain of events that led to our flight situation. When I did search my email for the word "Amsterdam," I did not locate the original email confirmation from when I booked the flight. What I did locate was a series of emails between DH and myself circa 2002. At that time, I was studying abroad in Paris and planning a weekend trip to Amsterdam with friends. DH wanted to join us, but couldn't scrape together enough money for a trans-Atlantic flight. I showed those emails to DH and we agreed that fate had given us our joint trip to Amsterdam after all that time, so why not actually go.

Now, back to our story. Our large suitcase was checked through to Boston, so we just had to bring our carry-on and our ABD tote full of DS's toys and stuffed friends into town. There was a short wait for customs and then we hailed a cab and headed into town.

It took about 30 minutes to get to our hotel, Hotel Estherea, which wound up being the surprise hit of our trip hotel-wise. We were warmly greeted upon arrival, DS was given a little stuffed toy and we were shown to our room. DH was very impressed with the utility of the room design. He was especially taken with the little area on either side of the bed for charging a phone or tablet.

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DS was prepared to admire the room all day, but DH and I were hungry so we set out in search of lunch. Our first stop was a sandwich shop our cab driver recommended, but it was cash only. Eventually we settled on a pub with outdoor seating along a canal. DH had a sandwich and DS and I shared a cold appetizer platter, which was basically cheeses, breads and olives. We enjoyed people watching for a bit and then wandered around the main part of town until we were totally exhausted. (That did not take long).

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Back in the hotel lobby, we stashed DS in a large birdcage and partook of the free cookies, chocolates and coffee available for guests. Then we headed up to our room to rest for a bit. We capped the day with an early dinner at Kantjil et de Tigre, an Indonesian restaurant that I found on tripadvisor. (We asked the hotel staff for some recommendations and they suggested a nearby Italian place having no way of knowing that I was currently on an anti-pasta crusade).

For dinner, we got the vegetarian rijsttafel, which is the Dutch word for tons of food with a side of rice. (The ridiculous drink in the foreground is my very elaborate iced tea).

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Amsterdam is a nice place to be and we enjoyed it even though we didn't really "do" much. If we get the chance to come back, we will definitely stay at the same hotel.

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The next morning, we took a cab back to the airport, cleared security, and settled in for a long wait for our flight. It was delayed because the crew needed more rest before they could fly again. While we were waiting, DS and I enjoyed a relaxing massage.

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Meanwhile, DH was selected for enhanced screening. That is where they take your loved-one from you, put them somewhere you cannot see them and provide you with no updates on their whereabouts. When the plane started boarding and we still hadn't heard from DH, we decided to inquire.

Me: "Excuse me. My husband was selected for enhanced screening and never came back. Is he on the plane?"
Gate agent: "He could be."
Me: "Is there some way you could find out. My son wants to know where his Daddy is."

At this point, the gate crew started talking excitedly in Dutch. I don't speak Dutch, but I think the conversation loosely translated into something along the lines of, "Code red. A little boy misses his father. Take immediate action." Within 5 minutes, we were on the plane where we did, indeed, find DH.

The flight home was uneventful. I was too tired to entertain DS, so I let him watch Puppy Pals for 7 hours straight. (Fun fact 1: Delta only has 2 episodes of Puppy Pals on their on demand system. Fun fact 2: A 5 year old can happily watch the same two episodes of Puppy Pals for 7 hours.) The worst part of our trip was the hour plus wait for customs. When we finally got to a customs agent, his only question for us was: "Scotland, eh? How was the food?" "Heavy on the mayonnaise," I replied, and with that we were officially back in the US. For anyone wondering, all of our checked bags also made it home and they were on the carousel waiting for us when we finished at customs.
 
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That itinerary sure has changed. Our farewell dinner (the first year the Scotland tour was offered) was in Edinburgh Castle.

Thanks for your detailed trip report. It’s interesting to see how that tour has changed since 2013.

When I read the reports for the original itinerary, the new farewell dinner seems like a bit of a downgrade. I would imagine it is hard to find a place to host the event in Inverness -- but it would be great if ABD found another location. The food and service at the Kingsmill restaurants are not good enough to merit having 2 dinners there.

For us, we never would have booked the original itinerary. I know that people loved it, but it had too much moving around for us. The amount of travel time in this itinerary was pretty much perfect for us. Any more and I think I would have heard whining. (On our last vacation, DH -- not DS -- told me I had planned too much shuttle time).

I was thinking the same thing! It really has changed a lot. @Jess_S just wondering if there were any surprises in the itinerary that you haven’t mentioned or whether things were pretty much as advertised? You don’t have to give spoilers but just curious as to whether there were any.

The rescheduled falconry was a surprise, but that hopefully won't happen on any other trip. In terms of other surprise events, there weren't any as far as I noticed. We did get some surprise treats and gifts here and there. I had actually meant to include spoilers about them in my report. But since I skipped over most of them (everything but the little dog on day 2) while posting, I will take it as a sign that I should preserve the surprise for future guests.

If there are other questions, I am happy to answer them. I will be back to do a wrap up post with final thoughts and comments soon. Thanks to everyone who has followed along on this trip report.
 
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Thanks for writing this report, @Jess_S. Your photos, descriptions, candor, and tongue-in-cheek narrative made this a trip I would try solo.

Not having children myself, I did have concerns reading about your son and whether he might have been too young for this type of group adventure. We are signed up for our second ABD next year; neither of our trips have been adult exclusive ones, and they are both US-based. Our first trip consisted of only 11 people, where 7 of them were family members. The kids from that group were 12 year old triplets so they brought their normal sibling interactions on vacation with them. I might lean towards adult-exclusive, if available, for an overseas adventure. (We always book adults-only cruise excursions when offered.)
 
Thanks for an interesting and funny report! Scotland is not a country we’d do a tour for since DH has worked there so much, but I love to get ideas of places to go/things to do there. Now to find the time to get back!

Oh, and you’ll be so glad you’ve chronicled all the “joys” of traveling with your DS - they grow up so fast! As we get ready to head out on our Iceland ABD in the morning with DD who will be 21 in two months, I’m all nostalgic for our first ABD when she was 10. She was so cute in her earnest excitement and I wish I’d kept a journal of that trip.
 
Thanks for writing this report, @Jess_S. Your photos, descriptions, candor, and tongue-in-cheek narrative made this a trip I would try solo.

Not having children myself, I did have concerns reading about your son and whether he might have been too young for this type of group adventure. We are signed up for our second ABD next year; neither of our trips have been adult exclusive ones, and they are both US-based. Our first trip consisted of only 11 people, where 7 of them were family members. The kids from that group were 12 year old triplets so they brought their normal sibling interactions on vacation with them. I might lean towards adult-exclusive, if available, for an overseas adventure. (We always book adults-only cruise excursions when offered.)

I personally wouldn't choose a family tour if just DH and I were travelling. But there were people in our group with no kids or who left their kids home and they seemed unbothered by the 15 junior adventurers in our group.

For those who felt that 5 was too young for the trip, I am curious as to whether that means too young for European travel or too young for ABD? Seeing that several people had this perspective has been eye opening for me because it is one I had not considered before.

Thanks for an interesting and funny report! Scotland is not a country we’d do a tour for since DH has worked there so much, but I love to get ideas of places to go/things to do there. Now to find the time to get back!

Oh, and you’ll be so glad you’ve chronicled all the “joys” of traveling with your DS - they grow up so fast! As we get ready to head out on our Iceland ABD in the morning with DD who will be 21 in two months, I’m all nostalgic for our first ABD when she was 10. She was so cute in her earnest excitement and I wish I’d kept a journal of that trip.

The earnest excitement of younger kids really is one of the top nice things about traveling with them. DS says, "Vacation days are the best days because you get to see Mommy," and I think about how he won't always feel that way a lot.
 
For those who felt that 5 was too young for the trip, I am curious as to whether that means too young for European travel or too young for ABD? Seeing that several people had this perspective has been eye opening for me because it is one I had not considered before.

I wouldn't say too young for either European travel or ABD, but maybe too young for certain ABD or other group travel itineraries. After the first part of your report, my interpretation was that maybe your DS wasn't really enjoying it and was bored by certain aspects of the itinerary (e.g., the visit to the Brittania) and that maybe you weren't able to fully enjoy your Scotland experience because of needing to attend to DS's needs. From reading the rest of your report, it does seem like DS enjoyed himself and that you didn't feel like your enjoyment of the trip was lessened, so maybe it's all good. My DS had just turned 9 when we did the original Scotland itinerary, and due to the extended distances traveled on that one, I don't think I would have wanted to attempt it when he was any younger. But he was 6 (but just a month shy of 7) when we took him to Europe for the first time, and that was not a problem at all. For that one, we chose a DCL Med cruise, which worked out really well since the ship served as a consistent home base and we didn't need to pack up our stuff and physically move every couple of days, and we were able to choose excursions that we thought both of our kids (we also have a DD who was 8 (almost 9) at the time) would enjoy and could handle.
 
@Calfan summed it up nicely. Even though the minimum age for Scotland is 4, I don’t think I have ever met a very young child who would have enjoyed a number of these activities. I am sure he would be more engaged on a different type of trip, whether in or out of the US.

@Jess_S, I think I have seen you in the DCL forum. Have you considered a European itinerary on a cruise? There are so many activities geared towards children and families (and adults, too).
 
Final Thoughts

I confess that I sometimes skip the reader comments when looking at trip reports and just read the posts that are part of the narrative. For that reason, I am going to compile my final thoughts on this trip into this post -- including repeating commentary that I made earlier in response to questions. In no particular order, here are some things that I think it is useful to know:

1. Bathrooms (not the most pleasant subject, but an important one)
  • Nearly every time there was a group bathroom break, the person in front of me in line would come out of the bathroom and apologize because she could not get the toilet to flush. I would then enter the bathroom and successfully flush. My takeaway on this is that I must have been the only person with a home containing an original-to-the-house toilet. For those who have toilets that are less than 50 years old, the proper method for flushing a Scottish toilet is as follows: 1) wait until the water has completely finished running; and 2) firmly depress the flusher and hold it until all of the water has run out of the toilet. If you do not properly execute either of these steps, the toilet will not flush
  • There is a bathroom on the bus, but it is apparently illegal to use it while the bus is moving. We did not realize that you could not actually use the bus toilet, so we did not press DS to use the restroom before boarding the bus each day. That resulted in a situation where DS had to use the restroom on the bus -- something that the driver really did not like because he was apparently risking a ticket by allowing it. This was not explained to us until the issue arose, but I think it is something that everyone should know and plan for.

2. Packing Notes
  • We bought good quality raincoats before this trip. I fretted about how expensive they were, but they certainly paid for themselves in terms of keeping us comfortable.
  • You should also bring waterproof shoes. Ideally, try to find something light weight. DH and I packed our heavy hiking boots and they kept our feet dry, but were needlessly cumbersome.
  • I wished I had packed gym clothing. We started late enough most days that I could have visited the hotel gym at least a few times. Since this was not a particularly active itinerary, I think I would have felt better if I had worked in more exercise.
3. Itinerary Notes
  • My favorite days were 3 (Floors Castle), 4 (Travel to Highlands) and 6 (Culloden and Black Isle).
  • My least favorite days were 1 (Edinburgh) and 5 (Loch Ness). As I mentioned, my view as that the Edinburgh day tried to accomplish too much in too little time. I did not feel like I had enough time in either of the castles or on the Royal Mile to actually experience those sights. (We did have enough time on the Britannia to see everything as it is a pretty compact attraction. Of course, that's the one attraction that I did not particularly care for). Loch Ness day was disappointing because I made the mistake of skipping the canoeing. I should have either convinced DH and DS to canoe or taken advantage of the fact that being in a group allowed me to split off from my family. There were certainly families where some members did the canoeing and others did the motor boat.
  • DS's favorite things were movie night, falconry, feeding the deer, holding weapons during the "story telling" and playing with the other kids in our group. He says there is nothing he did not like, but he seemed least engaged to me at the Britannia and the whisky distillery.

4. Things that Surprised Me
  • We were the only people in our group that arrived early. Everyone else flew in on Day 1. I honestly don't know how they did it. There is plenty to see and do in Edinburgh, so I recommend pre-days if you can swing them.
  • For whatever reason, it seems like ABD's Europe trips don't actually attract a lot of children (which I would define as kids 11 and under). I am not sure why this is. From talking with ABD before our trip and talking to the guides on our trip, I do think that ABD would like to attract younger children and believes that many ABD trips are young child friendly. I would like to see ABD look into their policies and procedures to see if they can be modified in a way that makes it easier for families with similar-aged children to be grouped together. To my mind, the number one thing that would make ABD more friendly for young children is other young children.

5. Overall Impression of ABD
  • Based upon our experience in Scotland, we would book with ABD again, but it would need to be the right itinerary. We would not use ABD for any country where we expect food to be a main attraction because ABD just does not do a great job of accommodating vegetarians. There is a vast difference between making sure someone doesn't starve to death and providing them with interesting food options, and ABD's treatment of vegetarians is much closer to the former than the latter. There would also need to be some reason why group travel makes sense given the itinerary.
  • Michael and Claire were wonderful guides. I have no basis for comparison, but another family stood up during the farewell dinner and commended them for being "the best that ABD has to offer." Since that family had been on several prior ABD's, I think their opinion carries some weight.
  • I appreciate @Chirple and @Calfan 's thoughts on why they perceived DS as too young for this itinerary. There are a lot of people who, for whatever reason, are afraid to travel with children at all and that makes me kind of sad. But if the question is not whether kids should travel at all, but rather, whether a particular trip is right for them, then I think we are all actually on the same page. Hopefully my report has helped some parents decide whether this trip is right for their kids.
  • We made the decision to travel to Scotland first and then the question was whether to go on our own or whether to travel with ABD. I think that ABD provided a better experience for DS than doing the same trip on our own -- primarily because we would have wound up booking lots of group day tours if we had traveled on our own. Being part of a group where DS knew and liked the guides was preferable to a new group and guide every day. Having someone else in charge of things like snacks, first aid kits and luggage transfers was nice. I loved having a night with included babysitting. But what would have taken this trip from really good to best ever is a similar-aged playmate for DS.
  • As between group travel and independent travel, I still prefer independent travel. I like planning trips and I don't mind coordinating logistics, so having someone else handle those things for me is not of particular value to me unless the logistics are impossible to plan on your own. And giving up the ability to decide how long we stay in a particular place is a big ask for me. Everyone in my family has a pretty long attention span if we are interested in a particular sight and we could have easily spent significantly more time at many of the places we visited on this trip. So the appeal of ABD or any group tour is almost exclusively whether they can make the trip more fun/provide similar aged travel companions for DS.
  • After Scotland, the ABD's that are of interest are: South Africa, Ecuador/Galapagos, Danube Cruise and China. Depending on price, we may book South Africa for 2020.
 
@Calfan summed it up nicely. Even though the minimum age for Scotland is 4, I don’t think I have ever met a very young child who would have enjoyed a number of these activities. I am sure he would be more engaged on a different type of trip, whether in or out of the US.

@Jess_S, I think I have seen you in the DCL forum. Have you considered a European itinerary on a cruise? There are so many activities geared towards children and families (and adults, too).

I don't see us returning to Europe anytime soon, so my guess is that we won't be doing DCL to Europe. I did consider it as an option for this year, but then DH decided he wanted to go somewhere that had lots of castles and we settled on Scotland instead. One of the main issues I have with DCL is that DH claims to hate boats. DS and I had to practically beg to get him to agree to our Star Wars cruise next year.
 

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