Our Japanese Adventure 12.1 - 12.12

Joined
Jan 11, 2017
Personal introduction: Hi! This will be my very first trip report and I thought I'd give some background to help you understand me and my love of Disney! I grew up in a city called Cypress, roughly 15 minutes away from Disneyland. My family went to Disney occasionally, but we definitely weren't "Disney people". I went to college in Southern California and met my now-husband my freshman year. We almost immediately started going to Disneyland together and are now fully Disneyfied! We're now in our mid-twenties, got married roughly 2.5 years ago and honeymooned at WDW, which was the first trip for both of us! Though we live a littler further from Disneyland now, roughly 45 minutes away, we still make it there about 2x a month. Our travels take us far and wide, we've managed to make it back to WDW. We bought a DVC resale contract after our honeymoon, have been back three times, and are anxiously awaiting our next trip!

Trip Details

When: December 1-12, 2018

Where: Tokyo (4 days), Kyoto (3 days), Tokyo Disney Resort (4 days)

Who: Me (24) and DH (25)


Trip Report Layout

Abbreviations


Planning Stage

Fascinating Tokyo

Beautiful Kyoto

Tokyo Disney Resort

Intro - Hotel, tickets, planning
Day 1 - Disneyland
Day 2 - DisneySea
Day 3 - DisneySea and Ikspiari
Day 4 - Parkhopping


Stay tuned for posts to come! I plan to add in pictures when I can but I'm honestly horrible at remembering to take pictures (bad millennial, I know). I tried more on this trip so we'll see :)
I've also planned to start with Tokyo Disney Resort (TDR) posts, and fill in the parts about Tokyo and Kyoto later, as I assume the majority of readers will care mainly for the TDR parts anyways! Hope you enjoy, and if not, well, at least I've written this down for my own memory!
 
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Abbreviations

TDR - Tokyo Disney Resort
TDL - Tokyo Disneyland
TDS - Tokyo DisneySea
PHH - Pooh's Hunny Hunt
Monster's - Monsters, Inc. Ride and Go Seek
JCTE - Journey to the Center of the Earth

(Will be added on to as time goes on)
 
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Planning Stage

As we prepared to make this trip, it was incredible to us how many people asked "But why are you going to Japan?". Well, the answer is fairly simple. We've never been to Asia and thought Japan would be a perfect place to start. The culture was somewhat familiar to us, my mom studied abroad there and had people we could connect with, and there was a Disney resort there!

Time of year: We selected early December as the time to go because we would be able to catch the end of the fall colors in Japan, crowds didn't seem to be too intense at that time, and it was spaced enough apart from our other vacations to not have our employers take issue :)

Locations: Though there were several places I wanted to see in Japan, the length of our trip just didn't allow for it. We limited our time not at TDR to Tokyo and Kyoto. I'm glad we did this and there's still much to see in those cities that we didn't get a chance to on this trip.

Accommodations: We stayed in AirBnBs in Tokyo/Kyoto and would highly recommend anyone else do the same. At TDR, we stayed at the Sheraton Grande Tokyo Bay hotel, which we would also highly recommend. I'll discuss these more individually in the posts below.

Weather: Being from California, we knew the weather would be colder than we were used to. However, we were NOT prepared for the wind chill factor. We had to buy extra hats/gloves/hand warmers while there. The temperatures were regularly in the 40s and it was definitely enough to make us feel that we hadn't properly prepared.

Transportation: Since we were going to different cities in Japan, we arranged to get 7-day Japan Rail Passes. This allowed us to travel on the bullet train to/from Tokyo and Kyoto, as well as many of the local trains in each respective city. For other subways/trains operated by other companies we used a PASMO card that we had pre-ordered. I spent a decent amount of time researching the transportation but it was still a challenge to figure it all out once there. I would recommend anyone using trains in Japan to allow for extra time at the station to figure out the routes, trains, etc., at least for journeys to new locations.

Activities: Our days in Tokyo/Kyoto were focused on exploring the culture of the cities - past and present. We went to museums, shrines, temples, and just wandered around various parts of the cities. There was only one "guided" tour we took. I booked it through AirBnB a few months in advance and it was led by a woman who had studied Tokyo history at Tokyo University. It was just my husband and I and she led us around very unique parts of the city while explaining how Edo/Tokyo's past has influenced present-day Tokyo and Japan. It was INCREDIBLE and we learned so much more than we would have on our own.
 
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Fascinating Tokyo

Arrival/Getting to the City/Bag Drops/Mifi pickup

Our trip began early Sunday morning, as we landed at Narita airport around 5:30am. After deplaning and waiting a while to get through customs, we stopped in a restroom to change, wash up a bit, and prepare for the day. We had heard about the Japanese restrooms and this first experience did not disappoint! It actually did take a bit of time to figure out how to properly operate everything but we succeeded and after rejoining, we made our way to the JR Pass office, which was set to open at 7:00am. We had purchased a 7 day JR pass weeks prior to our trip and had to redeem the vouchers we had received for the pass itself, which we planned to use to take a JR line into Tokyo.However, by the time we made it the office, around 6:45am, the line had already stretched well past a marker indicating a 60min wait from that point. So instead, we purchased a PASMO card, which we had planned on doing anyways, and loaded it approximately $50 each. JR passes are very useful but a lot of the train lines in Tokyo aren't run by JR and it's therefore useful to get a PASMO/SUICA card for all other trains operated by different companies. The cards do also work for JR lines. The JR pass is most helpful if you plan on going to Kyoto as well, otherwise it might be hard to justify the value as opposed to just loading up cards for the journeys. It took ~$10 each to get in to the city but it was worth it to us to get started as opposed to waiting at the airport. Upon arriving at Shinjuku station, we found the JR office there (actually at a separate office across the street), which had no line and we easily picked up our JR passes. It's worth noting, however, that everyone we asked for directions or help spoke little to no English, even the lady who assisted us at the JR office. Using maps that I had printed at home, along with maps we picked up at the JR office, we made our way to a street some blocks away. I had made reservations through a service called "Ecbo Cloak", which let us drop of our bags at a small business near the post office, since our AirBnB wouldn't be available to us until 4pm. The post office, which would open at 9am, held our mifi, which had been delivered there for us to pick-up, again arranged through a service. We dropped off our bags, grabbed some breakfast from a 7/11 on the corner, and waited for the post office to open. Once we picked up the mifi, we headed back to Shinjuku station, and boarded the JR Yamanote Line to begin our adventure!

Day 1 Adventures: "New" Tokyo

(Note: For each day, I'll be giving high-level bullets for the activities, with additional notes that might be helpful.)

- Our first stop was at Harajuku Station, where we made the Meiji-jingu Shrine our first visit. It was absolutely breathtaking and as we walked further down the path to the shrine itself, we were amazed at how secluded we felt from the hustle and the bustle of the city just steps away. We marveled at the architecture, and also were fortunate enough to catch two weddings at the shrine. It really was a great first stop.
- From Meiji-jingu, we headed to Omotesando and Takeshita Dori, where we wandered through the high-end stores and the kitschy shops alike, enjoying rainbow grilled cheese, crepes, and all manner of treats for the eyes. After snacking so much, we grabbed a light lunch of gyoza at "Gyozaro", a highly recommended gem serving cheap, delicious gyoza. There was a line when we arrived but we were seated in about 15 minutes and food came quickly.
- We had not prepared for the weather to be quite so cold and we were pretty miserable. After lunch we headed back to Takeshita Dori to find a 100 yen store and buy some gloves and hats.
- I had really hoped to go to Nezu Museum to see the garden, but our exhaustion and the cold were wearing on us so instead we jumped back on the JR Yamanote line and headed to Shibuya to catch the crossing and marvel at the department stores and boutiques. We also made sure to catch the statue of Hachi!
- By this time it was close to 3pm, and we headed back to Shinjuku in order to grab our bags and walk to our AirBnb, located roughly 5 minutes from the Shinjuku station. We checked in just fine, marveled at the primo location, and then completely knocked out. At some point we woke up and stumbled downstairs to try Ichiran's Ramen, which was definitely worth it and something we still dream about, only to return to shower and head back to bed for the night. It was a wonderful first day.

Day 2: Tokyo Station, The Imperial Palace, Yasukuni-jinja Shrine

After a much needed night of rest, we got up and headed out. We grabbed breakfast at a stand along the way, and caught a train to Tokyo Station.

-We ended up spending some unscheduled time just exploring the station and its surrounding grounds. It was truly beautiful and one of my favorite train stations in the world. I was surprised I hadn't read more about it in my research but I was glad we stopped and looked around.
- Afterwards we headed to the Imperial Palace where we literally got lost in the beauty if it all. We only ever made it to the East Gardens but honestly we would happily have stayed there for hours upon hours. As it was, I had only planned on spending 30 minutes there (how much time can you actually spend in gardens?), and we spent an hour and a half wandering those beautiful grounds and taking it all in.
- We left through the Hirakawa-mon Gate and ate at a nice restaurant within a nearby building.
- After lunch, we walked to the Yasukuni-jinja Shrine, passing through the Kitanomaru park on the way. The Shrine was beautiful, though much different than Meiji-jingu, as it was dedicated for those who gave their life fighting for Japan. There were both traditional and modern sculptures, with obvious attention given to the detail in the works. We entered the Yushukan Museum as well, which I hadn't fully understood before entering. Personally, there were some tough things to be found in the museum, especially related to WWII. However, I'm a firm believe in trying to understand all sides of all conflicts and I appreciated the new perspectives I gained from the museum.
- By the time we left, night was falling and we realized we hadn't done half of what we'd hoped to do, but we were thoroughly content with what we'd done. We headed back to our AirBnb and napped for a few hours before heading out and grabbing some 7/11 meals for dinner. We wandered around Shinjuku, enjoying the neon extravaganza before finally turning in for the night.

Day 3: Guided by a Local, Being locals

- I had booked an experience through AirBnb to have a local woman who taught at Tokyo University take us around Tokyo and share the history of the city, formerly called Edo. We met her at Nezu station around 8:45am and she spent the morning taking us to Nezu shrine and walking around residential parts of Tokyo that used to be battlegrounds and other historically important areas of the city. She taught us much about the history of the city and how its history has shaped the current districts today. We also learned a lot about Japanese culture in general from her. She took us by her own favorite rice cracker stand, showed us her neighborhood and a street with shops where locals shopped. We also saw a plethora of smaller, neighborhood shrines and temples and got a feel for how the locals lived on a daily basis. It was an incredibly enlightening experience and we would highly recommend looking into something like this. We didn't see a single other tourist when we were with her and it was a highlight of the trip for us.
- We had planned to take the long train ride out to Edo-Tokyo Open Air Architectural museum but it was close to 1pm by this time and instead we caught a train back to Shinjuku and grabbed lunch at a restaurant in a mall by the station. We decided to just take it easy for the rest of the day and even decided to see Fantastic Beasts: Crimes of Grindelwald later in the evening. We looked through the shops in the mall and loved seeing the different "lolita" shops. It was fun pretending to be Japanese teens for the afternoon, after a day of school. We shopped, saw a movie, and then grabbed dinner and ice cream while walking around Shinjuku some more.
- We took a break in the room for a while but around 9:30pm we headed for Golden Gai. Golden Gai is a slightly intimidating area of shinjuku famous for its ramshackle bars. It was our last night in Tokyo and we had a great time bar-hopping and meeting up with a wide variety of individuals. The one thing about Golden Gai is that it really is mainly for tourists. Sure, there are locals, but the locals go to bars which cater solely to them - meaning posters on the doors saying "locals only". In any case, we met tons of awesome tourists from places around the world and had a grand last night in Tokyo.

Day 4: Edo-Tokyo National Museum, Transfer to Kyoto

- We left early in the morning and headed for Tokyo Station, where we once again utilized Ecbo Cloack to leave our bags while we took a train to the Edo-Tokyo museum, our last attraction in Tokyo.
- The museum was absolutely fantastic and we must have only seen 20% of it. We arrived and upon entering and purchasing tickets, found out that while they had audio guides available, they also had a volunteer who would give us a tour in English if we wanted. We eagerly took them up on the offer and a man whose name I unfortunately can't recall, led us around. He was fantastic and we learned a lot about Japanese history and culture from him. Something that really struck me was his eagerness to point out instances where the US did something positive for Japan.... for example, he turned to us and thanked my husband and I for the aid the US provided after the Tokyo earthquake in 1923. Of course, this made it even more heartwrenching when we moved into WWII territory. He told about how he lived through the air raids in Tokyo as a small boy and how his father, in an attempt to save the family, moved them all to Nagasaki, where he subsequently lost some family members in the atomic bomb attack. We quietly gave him our condolences and he softly smiled and nodded before we moved on with the tour. It wasn't an easy experience, but it was one I won't soon forget. My grandpa is 94 and fought in the South Pacific. Whatever my opinions about the war and decisions made by countries, I'm grateful for meeting this man and the reminder of the horrors of war.
- After leaving in a somewhat somber and contemplative mood, we headed back to Tokyo Station where we grabbed lunch and boarded the Hikari Shinkansen for Kyoto.


That was Tokyo for us! A grand city and a beautiful experience!
 
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Tokyo Disney Resort - Hotel, Tickets, Planning

Hotel: Sheraton Grande Tokyo Bay
We booked a park wing standard room and, due to status with Marriott, got upgraded to a room on the Club Level floor. Our room was fantastic and right off the Bayside Station of the Tokyo monorail so it was extremely convenient! It was a ~2 minute walk to the hotel from the Station, if that, and we could get to either park within 10 minutes on the monorail. We really enjoyed the hotel, had great service, and we would easily recommend it. We also found that the Disney store within the hotel had a lot of the items that we purchased in the parks so we could've saved ourselves a headache and just purchases smaller souvenirs at the hotel.

Tickets: We purchased our tickets at 6am on the morning of our first day, directly from our hotel. We had tried to buy them the night before, when we got in, but the ticket counter had already closed. The tickets were incredibly cheap compared to the US parks - $200 for a 4-day pass!

Planning: Most of my planning time went into Tokyo and Kyoto and so I didn't spend near as much time as I normally do for WDW trips. We mostly winged it, with help from blogs/websites, primarily The Disney Tourist Blog, TDRexplorer, DISboards, and TouringPlans.
 
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Tokyo Disney Resort - Day #1 - Disneyland

And So The Lines Begin – For the Park, Fastpasses, and Popcorn

Though we could have taken the monorail, we had gotten up slightly later than we’d hoped and after grabbing breakfast from the hotel club lounge, we caught a taxi and arrived just before 7:00 .We joined an already very long line for opening at 8:00. It was incredibly cold, around 40 degrees Fahrenheit, and we Southern California natives quickly realized we would likely need additional gear to keep warm. Around 7:45 we were let into the park and immediately dashed for Monster’s Inc. Ride and Go Seek. It was intense and around 7:50 we found ourselves in a shockingly long line for the FastPass machines. At 8:00 the machines opened and the air was filled with the sound of giggles (the machines elicited laughter upon the issuance of each FastPass). The line organization left a lot to be desired, as there were ropes roughly 25 ft apart between which everyone was funneling and it made for a chaotic experience. I made it through around 8:10am (snagging a return time of 10:20am) and we hurriedly made our way towards Pooh’s Hunny Hunt. I’ve got to say, we weren’t overly impressed so far. We’ve rope-dropped every park at WDW several times, and we rope-drop at the DLR roughly once a month – but nothing prepared us for the sheer mass of people this morning. When we got to Pooh’s, we were directed to the back of the line which, by this point, had stretched all the way into the borders of ToonTown. As we got into line I happened to notice a popcorn stand selling the Steamboat Willie popcorn bucket! I had heard about these before our trip but had also heard that they were sold out. Fearful of losing out, I jumped out of line to grab a bucket. I was sure I’d be able to rejoin my husband far before the queue even entered the official line area. Unfortunately, I underestimated the wait but after standing in line for 25 minutes, I was the proud owner of a Steamboat Willie popcorn bucket. I then had to apologetically enter the Pooh line and rejoin my husband, who was thankfully just barely inside the official line. (I know – I was *that* person. I still feel pretty bad about it.)

Our First Tokyo Disney Resort Ride – Pooh’s Hunny Hunt

In any case, another 30 minutes later and we were entering the Pooh building. The queue really was gorgeous and we loved seeing all the touches. We were surprised that all of the signs/storybook pages were in English. This was a theme throughout the resort, and I’ll touch on it more later on. The ride was fantastic and one that I would love to see here in the US. I’m a huge fan of Pooh and his friends, but I must admit that the Heffalumps and Woozles scene in the Disneyland ride still frightens me. As a consequence, I don’t care for the versions we have in the US but am definitely enamored with the Tokyo version. It’s cute and worth it, though I found the hype maybe heightened my expectations a smidge too much.

Monster’s Ride and Go Seek, and a “Happiest Surprise”

We left Pooh, and its ADORABLE gift shop, and evaluated our options. It was 9:25am and we decided to squeeze Peter Pan’s Flight in before our FastPass window opened up at Monster’s Ride and Go Seek. Though the dialogue was all in Japanese, the ride was gorgeous and very similar to the WDW version. Afterwards it was 10:15 and as our Monster’s RaGS Fastpass opened at 10:20 we started making our way back to Tomorrowland, pausing to grab Space Mountain FastPasses on our way. Just as we were passing Space Mountain a wonderful Cast Member stopped us and asked if we had a minute. We said sure, and she asked us some basic questions about where we were from, if this was our first time, etc.

She then explained that she wanted to give us a “Happiest Surprise”! Thoroughly confused but extremely excited, we watched as she pulled out two “Memory Makers”. These colorful devices lit up and as you walked around the parks they would occasionally come to life and you would hear Mickey and friends saying different things. They would always come to life around the “Happiest Mickey Spots”, which were 35 statues placed around the parks that commemorated Mickey and the TDR’s 35th anniversary. Unfortunately, the Memory Makers only operated in Japanese but it was fun nevertheless. We were also handed two bright, multi-colored lanyards with plastic medallions as part of this “Happiest Surprise”. We thanked the Cast Member and happily went on our way. As we entered Monster’s Inc. RaGS, several Cast Members got very animated at the sight of these lanyards and excitedly congratulated us on our “Happiest Surprise”. Over the course of the morning it became clear that we had received something special but it wasn’t until midday that a Cast Member was able to explain it clearly to us. In honor of the 35th anniversary, 350,000 guests would receive a “Happiest Surprise” over the course of the year-long celebration. This could be in the form of free merchandise (our “Memory Maker”), FastPasses, confetti showers, etc. Each recipient would also receive the special lanyard as a memento from this experience. It really was a wonderful surprise and warmed us to TDR quite quickly after our not-so-fuzzy feelings earlier that morning. Getting back to our schedule of the day – Monster’s Ride and Go Seek was fun, if overwhelming. There’s A LOT going on and there’s a fine line between taking it in and engaging with the ride activity. I don’t want to spoil too much, but I will say that it took a second ride to fully appreciate everything going on in this ride.

The Lottery and “Disney Christmas Stories”

By the time we exited Monster’s Ride and Go Seek it was roughly 10:50. The Christmas parade had started at 10:40 but we knew the pathway between Tomorrowland and Fantasyland was the end of the parade route so we figured we had a few minutes to spare before finding a last-minute spot. We went to a building in Tomorrowland, next to Space Mountain, to try our luck for the lottery showing of “Celebrate! Tokyo Disneyland”. The “lottery” system is a way for people to “win” free tickets for prime viewing spots at various shows. We didn’t win but that was alright as we could still grab spots to watch it, just not right in front of the castle. Additionally, the second showing didn’t require the use of the lottery so we could also have tried to catch that showing. After trying for the lottery we were able to grab a spot in between Fantasyland and Tomorrowland to wait for morning parade performance of “Disney Christmas Stories”. This was a seasonal parade that was shown twice a day – once in the morning and once in the afternoon. As I stated above, we were at the end of the parade route and were able to catch the whole parade even though we didn’t find a spot until roughly 11:05. We enjoyed the parade and the costumes immensely. One interesting note was the fact that the music playing was all in English. This really took us aback, to be honest, but all the characters along the parade route spoke in Japanese. This was a trend for all shows/parades – music was generally in English despite specific characters speaking in Japanese. Kind of odd and I’d love to know the reasoning behind it. Nonetheless, the parade was great and as it ended (around 11:30), we made our way across the hub and into Westernland.

Lunch

We hoped to get an early lunch at Hungry Bear Restaurant, as we’d heard great things about the curry and rice there. However, as we showed up, a cast member signaled that the wait time was one hour and we realized we had to find a back-up. We ended up at the Camp Woodchuck Kitchen and were quite happy with our choice! My husband got the Waffle Sandwhich (it got a lot of praise from him) while I enjoyed a turkey leg which, while quite a bit smaller than at the US parks, was still pretty good! The theming of the restaurant was fantastic and really felt like a “camp”. There was even a fire ring outside, and I got the S’more Chocolate Brownie dessert – yum!

Dreaming Up!

After lunch, we found good spots for the Dreaming Up! Parade that’s being run as part of the Tokyo Disney Resort 35th “Happiest Celebration”. It was midday and we realized it wasn’t going to get any warmer. I couldn’t bear the thought of waiting for and then sitting through the parade with as cold as it was so I quickly ran to the World Bazaar to find a blanket. I also grabbed a “leisure sheet”, which are incredibly popular with the park-goers in Tokyo. They’re essentially plastic/vinyl rectangular sheets that are laid down to save spots for parades. The mats can typically accommodate 2-3 people comfortably and a lot of people actually took off their shoes to sit cross-legged on the mats. I picked up a “35th Happiest Celebration” leisure mat and we waited much happier for the parade to start at 1:15. It was totally worth it because the parade was AWESOME! I should note that we’re not normally parade people, but as we had read that parades were a big part of TDR we made sure to catch the three current parades at Tokyo Disneyland. The characters were fantastic, with familiar and rare personalities alike, and all cast members were going out of their way to put on a great show for the audience.

Rides, snacks, atmosphere

As the parade wrapped up, we packed up our leisure sheet and headed to Space Mountain to use our FastPasses. Space Mountain was similar to the Anaheim Disneyland version, with slightly different visuals but was very fast and very fun. Honestly, we would have loved to do it again but figured we should make better use of our time. As we left, we saw that the Star Tours FastPass return time was 3:10. It was 2:30 at the time and we quickly grabbed the FastPasses. We needed to kill 40 minutes and figured it was as good a time as any to try the green alien mochi at the Pan Galactic Pizza Port. It turned out we hadn’t done our homework, as the green alien mochi were no longer available. Instead we tried the Star Wars Stromtropper mochi that replaced it. We were less than impressed… but I think mochi just isn’t our thing, as it seemed to be popular with others. After relaxing and people watching for a few minutes we used our FastPass for Star Tours. It was very similar to the other Star Tours rides that are in the US parks but we enjoyed it anyways. As you exit, you’re on an upper level terrace and pass by an ice cream stand. It’s sort of an odd placement and kind of feels like it used to be the photopass spot for the ride but was converted into an ice cream window. In any case, my husband still drools over the peach ice cream that he got there and says it was in the top 3 treats he had while at the TDR. As he eat his ice cream, we saw the last few minutes of a performance by the Opus Five, an acapella group that performs in Tomorrowland. I actually didn’t know them by that name until after the trip. They performed under a sign saying “Stellarphones” and I could’ve sworn I heard them call themselves that as well, but I guess the real name was Opus Five. I was bummed we only caught the last bit as they sounded really great! We had hopes to catch the 5:30 show of the Celebrate! Tokyo Disneyland and wanted to get a few more things in beforehand. It was roughly 3:45 at the time and we headed to Adventureland for the first time that day. We rode Jungle Cruise and honestly, it’s the most beautiful Jungle Cruise I’ve been on. Since the skipper only spoke Japanese we didn’t catch any jokes but the scenes were gorgeous with colored lighting effects that really added a wonderful element. They also had pretty amusing points, particularly the lions guarding the zebra… they definitely took a “circle of life” spin to it. J Afterwards we managed to squeeze in the Enchanted Tiki Room. It was alright. I personally like the versions in the US better, but my husband is a huge Stitch fan so that won him ever pretty firmly.

Celebrate! Tokyo Disneyland

By now it was roughly 5:00, with the Celebrate! Tokyo Disneyland starting at 5:30. We found decent spots on a bridge within the hub and waited. At this point, it had been dark for an hour and the cold was pretty intense. My husband wanted to forget the show in favor of going to get something warm to wear. I encouraged him to stay the course and it was so worth it. It was definitely my favorite show within Tokyo Disneyland park and was a BEAUTIFUL homage to the park. The unique aspect of the show was that it focused on the park and its various lands/themes. It was really something and made me forget about the cold for 25 minutes :)

Dinner: Queen of Hearts Banquet Hall

Anxious to get out of the cold, we rushed over to the Queen of Hearts Banquet Hall for dinner. Unsurprisingly, we were met with yet another line. We were told 45 minutes but without any other real plan, we got in line. Thankfully, the line was far shorter than that and we managed to get in after only 25 minutes. It’s a buffet line style restaurant and the theming was INCREDIBLE. We’re really not Alice in Wonderland fans normally but the restaurant was intricately designed and the food was pretty great! It was a great experience and we would recommend it to anyone looking for a quasi table-service restaurant. As we were leaving, we were planning on catching the start of the Dreamlights parade, which was scheduled to start in roughly 25 minutes. Knowing that we were headed back into the cold, I asked a waitress if she knew where I could get a hot chocolate. She didn’t understand but got an English-speaking manager who was eager to help. In fact, the manager escorted us briskly to a nearby cart that was in the process of closing down. The manager spoke to them and they restarted a machine in order to make us two cups of hot chocolate. It was an amazing example of the superb customer service we experienced.

Tokyo Disneyland Electrical Parade Dreamlights

With warm hot chocolate, we settled in to watch the Dreamlights parade. Everything we’d seen advertising it simply referred to it as Dreamlights, so we were fairly surprised when we realized it was essentially the Electrical Parade! We love that parade and were happy to see it with a Tokyo spin. It seemed like such a perfect way to end our first day.


The park was still open for two hours but we were so exhausted and cold that all we felt up to was shopping within the World Bazaar. We bought some fun Tokyo-style hat/glove items to keep warm for the rest of the trip. It was a quick monorail trip back to Bayside Station and roughly 15 minutes after leaving Tokyo Disneyland we were sitting in the club lounge of our hotel, looking at a beautiful view of the castle with late-night snacks. Though it had a less-than-ideal start, we had a truly magical first day at the Tokyo Disney Resort.


 
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Tokyo Disney Resort - Day #2 - DisneySea

Arrival Strategy


We arrived at the gates of DisneySea around 7:00 on Monday morning! I had rushed out the door without stopping to grab breakfast from the lounge, but I figured it would be worth it after our very crowd-heavy experience on Sunday. Imagine our surprise, then, when the line was relatively short and we were maybe in the first 50 people in line. By the time the gates opened at 8:00, the lines had grown but not nearly to the levels of the day before, at Disneyland. As we pushed through the gates, the crowd took off in a frenzy towards the American Waterfront. We expected this, based on what we’d read about Toy Story Midway Mania being the most popular ride by far at DisneySea. We did NOT expect the craze in which the crowds would head that direction! Thankfully, we eventually broke off from the throng as our plan was to grab a Tower of Terror FastPass (intended for my use only, as my husband refuses to ride it) and then head to Journey of the Center of the Earth. The wait for ToT was only 5 minutes and in hindsight, it might have been wiser for me to ride then, but I was nervous about lines growing for Journey to the Center of the Earth so we moved along. My ToT FastPass return time was at 8:45.

Mysterious Island

We trekked through the American Waterfront and up through the edge of the Mediterranean Harbor before arriving at Mysterious Island. The wait for Journey to the Center of the Earth was only 5 minutes and we excitedly joined the line. It was around 8:20 at this time and I’ve got to say, we were WARM. We’d been moving around the park at a fairly quick clip for the last 15-20 minutes, and we’d bundled up significantly after freezing the day before. As we entered the queue, which is in a tunnel and heated, we began stripping off jackets, hats, and gloves. The line was beautiful and incredible intricate – I found myself slowing down to take it in and almost longing for there to be at least a *little* line, just so I could spend longer looking into the display cases, etc. However, we walked straight into one of the loading elevators that took us “down” into the depths of the volcano in order to board our vehicle. Moments later we were boarding our very own ride vehicle and entering the mysterious labyrinths that would take us to the earth’s core. The ride starts out as a dark ride and later turns into a thrill ride – a bit like Big Thunder Mountain, but more dark ride than thrill, if that makes sense. I hate to spoil anything, but I will say that my husband had a bit of a shock with one aspect of the ride and anyone who is sensitive to thrill rides might want to look at a video of this one before riding, though thrill lovers will probably find the thrill level to be mild. In any case, it stole my heart and is definitely in my top three favorite rides at the Tokyo Disney Resort, if not the very top.

As we exited, we crossed to the other side of the Mysterious Island and rode 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea. The ride was a walk-on and I couldn’t believe our luck with lines this morning. The ride itself was WAY better than I expected, honestly, and had interactive elements that made it all the more enthralling. As we resurfaced and left the ride we found ourselves looking at each other with an electric excitement – here we were, 45 minutes into our day, and already we’d gone on two of the best Disney rides we’d even been on and I still had a FastPass for one of my favorite rides that had just opened… it was going to be a GREAT day. We looked around Mysterious Island and loved all the details and signage, etc. Even though my FastPass for ToT had opened, we wanted to take advantage of the short wait times of the morning, so we grabbed FastPasses for Journey to the Center of the Earth for a later ride, and headed towards the Arabian Coast.

Arabian Coast

The path from Mysterious Island to the Arabian Coast took us past Mermaid Lagoon, which looked very colorful but fairly small from the outside. We continued past and as we entered the main the Arabian Coast area, we were impressed with the detail in the architecture and the layout of the port. There was a main “courtyard” which really did feel like we were within an Arabian palace, but as we wandered, we found ourselves within corridors and alleys that felt like an actual marketplace or normal town. Eventually, we found the way to Sinbad’s Storybook Voyage. I had read that if you asked for “story cards”, you could get English guides that were beautiful and helped tell the story of the attraction. Well, we asked but were told that, unfortunately these were not available. (As a side note, we asked for these at every attraction we could, and even at guest relations, but were never able to get our hands on one. Still, give it a shot if you make there – it’s worth a try!) The ride was gorgeous, the animatronics impressive, and the songs beautiful and catchy. We really loved this and it really made me feel like we were going on adventures with Sinband and Chandu (his pet tiger).

35th Anniversary Show, Tower of Terror, Mid-Morning Break, Christmas Show

At this point it was ~9:20am and we decided to head back towards Mysterious Island. My husband planned to wait by Magellan’s, which is part of the Mediterranean Harbor but very near to Mysterious Island, in order to snag a dinner reservation, while I would head back to the American Waterfront and ride ToT before rejoining him. However, once we made it to Magellan’s, we saw that the 9:30 “Happiest Celebration on the Seas!” was starting on the harbor and se we found a decent spot along the bridge between the American Waterfront and Mediterranean Harbor to watch. This was a cute show that featured Mickey and his friends as they welcomed you to DisneySea and to their 35th Happiest Celebration. I had to duck out around 9:40 to make sure I could use my ToT Fastpass.

Their version of the Tower of Terror is not based on the Twilight Zone, as the Japanese are unfamiliar with the Twilight Zone and it would have made little sense to them. Instead, the tower is the Hotel Hightower, named after Harrison Hightower III. He is one of the fictional members of the Society of Explorers and Adventurers, or S.E.A. For those who are unfamiliar, this is a fictional society that is sometimes referenced in Disney parks. The members are, as you would suspect, explorers and adventurers who thrive on gaining knowledge while journeying throughout the world. I don’t want to get too far in to the history, but I encourage you all to look into it further. References to S.E.A can be found at WDW, Disney Springs, Hong Kong Disneyland, Aulani, on the Disney Cruise Line, and most recently, at the Tropical Hideaway at Disneyland (Anaheim). This won’t be the last you hear about S.E.A within this trip report! In any case, I found their ToT backstory to be much more interesting and even the pre-show was better! This is one that I would recommend doing, even if you’re familiar with the US versions.

After the ride, I met my husband at Magellan’s and learned that he had secured us an 8:00pm reservation. He apologized for the late hour but said the hostess warned him away from the 6:00pm reservation, expressing that if he took that time, we would run the risk of missing a show. This was odd to me as I didn’t know of a show happening at 8:00pm but I shrugged and let it slide. We were hungry (I’d skipped breakfast when leaving our hotel at 6:45am that morning), so we went to Mamma Biscotti’s Bakery within the Mediterranean Harbor to grab a mid-morning snack. I’m ashamed to admit how many pastries we ordered but it was SO worth it. Each pastry was delicious and it was a wonderful treat. We sat for a while and people-watched, just admiring the beauty of the park. The wind started to pick up and it began to get quite cold. We hurried into a shop to buy some hand and body warmers that we had seen by the cash registers earlier. These were SO WORTH IT!! For no more than a few dollars, we were able to fill our pockets, socks, and gloves with warmers that stayed completely hot the entire rest of the day. They were a life-saver and made the rest of the trip much more comfortable. While warming up we watched the Christmas Show that was all the way around the harbor. It was incredibly cute and featured a pretty good variety of characters and songs and was actually fairly lengthy. It struck us again that Tokyo Disney shows feature a strange combination of Japanese and English songs. (Actually, this is a good side note here: all during our trip, throughout Japan, we heard Christmas songs solely in English. I asked our friends from Kyoto what that was about, and they explained that even though the vast majority of Japanese have no idea what the songs are saying, they prefer to hear them in English as that’s more “Christmas” to them! Very strange.) Something the really stood out and impressed us was the use of sign language for one of the songs at the end. Every character and performed around the whole harbor sang a Christmas song while signing it as well. It just goes to show how much TDR goes out of the way to be inclusive for all guests.

Big Band Beat, Leonardo’s Challenge, Lunch

Having lost the lottery for the Big Band Beat earlier in the day, we skipped away from the Christmas Show just a few minutes early in order to catch the 12:30 showing of the Big Band Beat that’d we’d heard nothing but good things about. It was a good thing too, as we just barely made it inside before the doors closed. The show was fine, featuring a lot of American “big band” songs, again partly in English and Japanese, but we were unimpressed and found it just okay. This must be just us though, as it was highlighted in our research as being a fantastic show.

Leaving Big Band Beat, we walked through the American Waterfront, intending to head towards the Arabian Coast for lunch. However, on our way we passed by Leonardo’s Challenge in the Mediterranean Harbor, near Magellan’s. This distracted me and after some puppy-dog glances at my husband, he agreed to delay lunch for this activity. This attraction is available solely in Japanese, but if you’re a S.E.A enthusiast and willing to work for it, it’s a lot of fun. The attraction takes place within the Mediterranean Harbor, and specifically within Fortress Explorations. Fortress Explorations is an extremely high-quality play area with tons to explore and experience. It’s comprised of castle look-outs, a docked ship, observatories, nooks, and more. You can play there anytime you please, but if you do the Leonardo’s Challenge, which is only open at certain times during the day, you’ll be given a map with a series of clues and steps to complete, with the end result of you being inducted as a member of S.E.A if you complete the whole challenge. This was not easy to figure out and caused us a bit of confusion, but with the help of Google Translate we were able to get through it and felt very accomplished for doing so.

With a smile on my face, we finally made it to Casbah Food Court for lunch. And boy was it a GOOD lunch! We each got a curry, of varying spice levels, and also tandoori chicken to split. This ended up being more than enough food and it was all delicious. The theming was great, though we found the cast member costumes questionable (seemed more Egyptian/northern African than Arabian).

Rides and more park exploration

After lunch we back-tracked a bit to use our Fastpass for Journey to the Center of the Earth, which on a second ride did not lose any excitement! We wandered back to the Arabian Coast to re-ride Sinbad, and then strolled into the Lost River Delta. I had really been looking forward to riding raging Spirits, but unfortunately it was down for refurbishment at the time of our trip. Instead we hopped into the Fastpass line, after telling the cast member that we wanted to ride as single riders. This was a tip we had read about in advance – there might not be posted single rider areas but you can ask at the fastpass line to be designated as single riders and go in that way. I was very impressed with the interior of the line for Indiana Jones as it had unique elements and I found a hidden mickey in the “ruins” of a wall. We walked around the Lost River Delta some more, and I honestly wish I’d spent a little more time just enjoying the land. There’s a river that separates parts of the land, with a marketplace, a stage for a show that we unfortunately didn’t have time to see. I found it beautiful and very well-themed. Instead, we wandered into Port Discovery. I had hoped to ride Nemo & Friends Searider and Aquatopia but the lines were pretty long (both over an hour), and we were getting pretty chilly. It was about 4pm at this point and we decided to take the DisneySea Electric Railway back to the American Waterfront and walk to the Venetian Gondolas to grab a sunset ride, as sunset was at 4:30. Unfortunately, when we arrived, we were told the Gondolas were shutting down in preparation for the 5:30pm showing of Fantasmic!. Suffering this minor disappointment but also relieved for a chance to get out of the cold and wind, we decided to go explore Mermaid Lagoon. We really had no clue what to expect, but it blew us away. You basically descend to an almost “hidden” underground lagoon that’s almost entirely hidden as you’re just walking by. The theming was incredible, and while the ENTIRE land is filled with small, screaming kids, it’s kind of a fun place to be. We tried to catch the “King Triton’s Concert” show, but the wait was 40 minutes and we wanted to make it back in time to catch Fantasmic!.

Fantasmic! and the Teddy Roosevelt Lounge

So we meandered about and took in the details, and headed to the Mediterranean Harbor around 5pm. To reiterate – it was FREEZING. Maybe not literally, but at 38 degrees it was pretty darn close. We huddled together until Fantasmic!, which showed at 5:30. To be honest, all Fantasmic! shows are different to me, but Tokyo’s might be my favorite! The show was beautifully done and we enjoyed the unique aspects of it. It seemed to take tech from World of Color, Illuminations, and even Rivers of Light, and put them to the Fantasmic! storyline.

As the show ended, we made our way back to the American Waterfront, to the S.S Columbia, where the Teddy Roosevelt Lounge can be found. It was way too cold for us to brave more park exploration, especially as it was dark, and we decided to warm up and get some cocktails before our 8pm reservation at Magellan’s. We LOVED this lounge! It’s quite possibly our favorite Disney bar. Tokyo somehow got an American-themed bar done better than most in the States! It had tons of intricate details, plenty to keep your eyes entertained, and the seating was plentiful and comfy. We did have to wait about 30 minutes to get in, but it was worth it. We got in around 6:30 and stayed until 7:45 when we walked over to Magellan’s.

Magellan’s

Upon arriving at Magellan’s, we told the hostess we’d arrived for our 8pm reservation. We gave her our name and after checking our tablet, looked up and timidly said, “You’re very late…”. Instantly confused, I turned to my husband who was also confused. We repeated the time and she looked back down… “18:00…” All at once it hit me. He’d mixed up 18:00 with 8:00pm. The hostess had a look of panic about her and I told her we were so sorry and that we would try again for a reservation the following day. Upon hearing this her eyes went wide and she indicated that we should stay there as she left. She returned with two other individuals all frantically looking at their tablets and eyeing us with distress. Meanwhile, I’m frantically typing into Google translate on my phone to try and reassure them that it’s all okay, it was our mistake, we’d try again tomorrow. One of the individuals read it and told us that he could not move our reservation to the next day, and wondered why we no longer wanted to eat that night… Apparently they thought our offer to just try again the next day was a demand to move our reservation to the next night. I quickly typed that it was quite the opposite - we did want to eat but did not want to burden them with squeezing us in as it was our mistake, and that, or course, we did not expect them to hold our reservation for the next evening. Finally the message seemed to click, because they all looked relieved and beamed as they ushered us into the restaurant. Exhausted from the exchange, we were happy to finally eat!

We were taken down to the bottom floor of the restaurant and then led to a corridor that appeared to lead to bathrooms on one end, and the kitchen on the other. In the middle, where we entered, was a bookshelf. The hostess asked us to push one of the books and as we did so, the bookcase opened up into a secret wine cellar!! This secret dining room had about 10 tables in total, with 2 other tables occupied. We had no idea this existed and were very excited to be dining there. Menus were solely in Japanese, and Google Translate wasn’t helping much, so we just ordered the Christmas prix fixe menu and figured we’d see what we got. The first course was a lot of fish, which neither of us care for, but we did our best to get it down so we wouldn’t be rude. The main course was steak, which was fine but not spectacular. Actually, all the courses were that way for us… fine, not great. The best part was actually the bread and butter, which was delicious and continuously refilled throughout the meal! The experience was cool, but the meal was pricey ($160 USD for the two of us), and to be honest I don’t think it was worth it… Unpopular opinion, maybe, but there it is.

By the time we left, it was 10 minutes to closing and we shut down the park with smiles on our face and a love in our hearts for this new, strange, and wonderful park. We still had much that we wanted to see and couldn’t wait to return the next day.
 
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I'm really enjoying your trip report! And I probably would have done the same thing for that popcorn bucket. I'm in no way judging you! I watched a video of the Celebrate Tokyo Disneyland show and it reminded me a lot of the Remember Dreams Come True show at DLR back in the day. How as the food at Queen of Hearts Banquet Hall? I have that on my list of places to eat at.
 
I’m glad you decided to write a trip report! Great start so far and I’m looking forward to the rest of your trip! We will also be there for about 11 days, exploring Tokyo, bullet train to Kyoto, and spending two full park days. We plan to get the 7 day JRPass, so I look forward to reading about your experiences using the pass! One huge difference is that we are going in July.....I don’t know which is worse...the cold or the heat?!?!

Do you happen to remember how much those “leisure sheets” cost in the parks? I was just planning to get a cheap one while in Tokyo rather than in the parks, but if they’re Disney themed I might be tempted to wait!

Did you use a pocket wifi router or SIM card for your phone?

Sorry for all the questions.....I’m in the midst of planning our trip! Thanks!!
 
I’m glad you decided to write a trip report! Great start so far and I’m looking forward to the rest of your trip! We will also be there for about 11 days, exploring Tokyo, bullet train to Kyoto, and spending two full park days. We plan to get the 7 day JRPass, so I look forward to reading about your experiences using the pass! One huge difference is that we are going in July.....I don’t know which is worse...the cold or the heat?!?!

Do you happen to remember how much those “leisure sheets” cost in the parks? I was just planning to get a cheap one while in Tokyo rather than in the parks, but if they’re Disney themed I might be tempted to wait!

Did you use a pocket wifi router or SIM card for your phone?

Sorry for all the questions.....I’m in the midst of planning our trip! Thanks!!

I'm honestly just happy to help! I’ll try and cover a little more in the individual posts but since I'm fearful I'll end up updating slowly here are some rapid fire answers just to help your planning process move along:

- I think I may have lucked out with the cold vs. heat. I'm very sensitive to the cold and my husband is very opposed to the heat. The difference is that once we bundled up and learned about the hand warmers sold all throughout the parks, the cold made little impact on our enjoyment - it was just the first day in the parks that was a shock! That being said, I'll be eager to hear you how guys found the heat/humidity... it can't be THAT much worse than WDW.. right??

- the JR pass was definitely worth it, though a little more confusing than I had anticipated. It’s easier once you get the hang of it! I'll think of specific tips and let you know.

- The leisure sheets were very inexpensive - maybe $5? and came in a very cute carrying pouch! We only needed one for the two of us.

- We did use a pocket wifi! We rented one in advance and picked it up at a post office near our AirBnB. We arrived on a Sunday and so had limited options to pick it up, but we landed around 5:00am and had the wifi by 9:00am. The wifi is a MUST in my opinion. It was roughly $70 for our entire trip and came with unlimited data. Seriously, get one. You won't be sorry.
 
Thanks!! We have had a few WDW trips in July/August, so I do know what it’s like in extreme heat and humidity! However I just read that Japan experienced temps over 105 F last August!! . Hoping it’s not a trend for summer temps.

I understand writing trip reports are very time consuming. I’m sure you have many followers though as there are just so few Japan trip reports out there!! So keep up the great writing!!
 
What an easy trip report to read! Perfect amount of detail. Will enjoy the other installments as you get to them, I am sure. Thanks for writing this up!
 
Can't wait to read the rest! Sounds like a great trip. I also want to see the Kyoto part because Kyoto is my favorite city in Japan.
 
Please Please keep writing, Please include your whole trip...

I'm just in the beginning of planning, and looking at mid- April 2020 or mid May 2020... depending on DH's job, we will decided later in the year which time frame works best...

Really interested in the Shinkansen Train ( bullet train) to Kyoto... how did you handle your luggage? did you ship it or did you carry it with you?
What points of interest did you hit while there? thoughts? restaurants?

Did you use the Shinkansen back to Tokyo then another train to the Sheraton?

We really want to stay at Tokyo Disneyland Hotel club level, going the package route... with that said.. In reading about the beds (no kings) is quite worrying for us. My DH is almost 6'5 and a big guy, and I have read the both Sheraton and Hilton offer King size beds.

When you say monorail back to the resort... is that the Disney Monorail... and what was the cost to use it?
 
Please Please keep writing, Please include your whole trip...

I'm just in the beginning of planning, and looking at mid- April 2020 or mid May 2020... depending on DH's job, we will decided later in the year which time frame works best...

Really interested in the Shinkansen Train ( bullet train) to Kyoto... how did you handle your luggage? did you ship it or did you carry it with you?
What points of interest did you hit while there? thoughts? restaurants?

Did you use the Shinkansen back to Tokyo then another train to the Sheraton?

We really want to stay at Tokyo Disneyland Hotel club level, going the package route... with that said.. In reading about the beds (no kings) is quite worrying for us. My DH is almost 6'5 and a big guy, and I have read the both Sheraton and Hilton offer King size beds.

When you say monorail back to the resort... is that the Disney Monorail... and what was the cost to use it?

Thank you for this motivation!! I will keep writing and updating - hopefully I’ll have some more write-ups done this week! Just to give you some rapid responses:
- the Shinkansen was easy enough, though I suggest getting there a little earlier as the stations can be deceptively large and it took us a while to find the correct platform as signage isn’t always great and even people at the information desks have limited English. We just took our luggage with us which wasn’t a huge deal. Our hotels were near stations - not more than a 5 minute walk. I’m not sure how shipping them would work, but I think it might not be worth the hassle. Mind you, we don’t have kids yet so that might be a factor.

- Kyoto was fantastic and I do have some excellent recommendations but I’ll have to go back to my notes to get the names right so I’ll have to get back to you on that...

- Yes, when transferring to Disney from Kyoto you’ll take the Shinkansen back to Tokyo and then transfer to another line. I can get the specific names for you as well.

- The bed situation was annoying. The Sheraton has queens I believe. Elsewhere we stayed in Airbnbs. One had two doubles pushed together, and one had doubles that we just pushed together ourselves... not ideal but we made it work. Though neither of us is 6-5”!

- Yes, I was referring to the Disney monorail and it’s very cheap - I think well under a dollar for a trip. Since you’re staying onsite I actually think you get a pass to use it for free

Hope some of this helps for now! I’ll grt back to writing I promise!
 
Thank you for this motivation!! I will keep writing and updating - hopefully I’ll have some more write-ups done this week! Just to give you some rapid responses:
- the Shinkansen was easy enough, though I suggest getting there a little earlier as the stations can be deceptively large and it took us a while to find the correct platform as signage isn’t always great and even people at the information desks have limited English. We just took our luggage with us which wasn’t a huge deal. Our hotels were near stations - not more than a 5 minute walk. I’m not sure how shipping them would work, but I think it might not be worth the hassle. Mind you, we don’t have kids yet so that might be a factor.

- Kyoto was fantastic and I do have some excellent recommendations but I’ll have to go back to my notes to get the names right so I’ll have to get back to you on that...

- Yes, when transferring to Disney from Kyoto you’ll take the Shinkansen back to Tokyo and then transfer to another line. I can get the specific names for you as well.

- The bed situation was annoying. The Sheraton has queens I believe. Elsewhere we stayed in Airbnbs. One had two doubles pushed together, and one had doubles that we just pushed together ourselves... not ideal but we made it work. Though neither of us is 6-5”!

- Yes, I was referring to the Disney monorail and it’s very cheap - I think well under a dollar for a trip. Since you’re staying onsite I actually think you get a pass to use it for free

Hope some of this helps for now! I’ll get back to writing I promise!


Thank you.... I am so looking forward to your trip report.. We are tossing around a lot of possibilities on how to get the most out of our time, I'm trying to develop a plan for us...as well as a budget, and I don't want to do a bunch of back tracking, and limit changing hotels...

In talking to some friends ( 2 different couple at different times) that went last year... they all said "we wished we had more time in Kyoto", and that they would have went to Hiroshima... and less time in Toyko, they both said that it took them only one full day to hit the things that they wanted to see, we all are really not into that night life scene ( DH and I are empty nester with grandkids,) ...one of the guys said its really about the nightlife in Tokyo, in his opinion.
 
Thank you.... I am so looking forward to your trip report.. We are tossing around a lot of possibilities on how to get the most out of our time, I'm trying to develop a plan for us...as well as a budget, and I don't want to do a bunch of back tracking, and limit changing hotels...

In talking to some friends ( 2 different couple at different times) that went last year... they all said "we wished we had more time in Kyoto", and that they would have went to Hiroshima... and less time in Toyko, they both said that it took them only one full day to hit the things that they wanted to see, we all are really not into that night life scene ( DH and I are empty nester with grandkids,) ...one of the guys said its really about the nightlife in Tokyo, in his opinion.

Honestly I EXACTLY echo your friends' sentiments!! I've been telling all my family/friends to put emphasis on Kyoto, less on Tokyo, and YES we also wish we had down a trip to Hiroshima!! We did do a day trip to Nara/Kobe from Kyoto but I would have loved to do Hiroshima and also Osaka. I will say that there are awesome things in Tokyo... gah! i'm going to have to write stuff up tonight and just get this trip report moving.
 

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