Car Battery

Used to only buy JCPenney Lifetime Warranty batteries, until they stopped selling them. My mom really cleaned up on those as she kept her car 27 years. Bought one when her car was 3 years old, and never bought another battery for 24 years. When JCPenney closed their auto centers, they contracted with Firestone to honor the battery warranty.
Then I only bought Interstate batteries, without regard to price because the battery stores said they lasted longer and had the best warranty.
Last two I bought were Excide because they had the longest warranty period where they would replace it for free....the same as Interstate, but they were $30 cheaper. So I buy the longest warranty for the lowest price.
 
I always go with the least expensive one. I drive my cars ‘til they drop (my last car was 21+ years old, and finally went out blowing a head gasket, and my current car is 14+ years old), so I never know if the battery will outlast the car…!!!!! 😅
I also carry a portable jump box with me, just in case, so I can at least get where I need to if one goes south while I’m out and about.
Plus, if they die before they’re rated for, they’re prorated, so I almost always get another one at a much reduced price, because they almost never last as long as they’re rated for…!!!!! 🤣
Just my take, bein’ an old car guy…!!! 🙂
 
They tend to be the most expensive at just over $200.
Just bought one for my pilot. $300. Had to buy an AGM battery since my car has auto start stop.

I like to buy the most expensive - I don’t want to be stranded anywhere with a dead battery. But there was a battery shortage a few months ago and I had to buy the one I could find.
 
Just bought one for my pilot. $300. Had to buy an AGM battery since my car has auto start stop.

I like to buy the most expensive - I don’t want to be stranded anywhere with a dead battery. But there was a battery shortage a few months ago and I had to buy the one I could find.
Yeah, those are expensive. Last battery I bought was for my 1965 Mustang, so very low tech, low demand use. The old battery was over 8 years old when it died......but only driven about 7,000 miles.
I think our Camry Hybrid uses an AGM 12 volt battery, a little tiny one that is in a small compartment in the trunk. That will be expensive to replace.
 
Yeah, those are expensive. Last battery I bought was for my 1965 Mustang, so very low tech, low demand use. The old battery was over 8 years old when it died......but only driven about 7,000 miles.
I think our Camry Hybrid uses an AGM 12 volt battery, a little tiny one that is in a small compartment in the trunk. That will be expensive to replace.

Curious about the ‘Stang…
Does it have the 200 c.i. straight-6, the 289 c.i. V-8, or has the original engine been replaced with something else…?! 🙂
 
Partly depends on where you live and how long you plan to keep your car. In cold weather is when you will tend to notice a weak/dying battery. I think many people ignore the symptoms and then suddenly find themselves stranded somewhere when their engine won't turn over. If you are planning to keep your car for any length of time, a good battery is the best option.
 
The extreme summer heat we get down here in Texas is a battery killer, as well.
The last battery I had in my last car (21+ years old) died just short of being a year old last summer, so was replaced free of charge.
The guy at the place I got it from said they were currently selling/replacing a lot of them because batteries were dying left and right in the extreme heat.
 
I don’t recall having a choice. I drive a Prius v and the battery wasn’t cheap, I want to say around $180. AAA doesn’t carry my car battery, so the best they could do was give me a jump start so I could drive to the mechanic to get a new one.

When I drove Ford cars, I would usually go with the medium or top level batteries, because Florida heat is tough on them, but they weren’t as expensive.
 
This is probably the main reason we are sticking it out with AAA.

We've been using the AAA battery service and enjoying the fact they will drive out to wherever we are to replace it, the biggest benefit is a auto battery usually goes on either the coldest or hottest days of the year and then the shops are a misery to try to get into. These batteries also have a warranty and I find them to be good with managing their products. If you have the magazine they tent to have the $10 off coupon
 
Curious about the ‘Stang…
Does it have the 200 c.i. straight-6, the 289 c.i. V-8, or has the original engine been replaced with something else…?! 🙂
It is an "A" code 289 V8 4 barrel 225 horsepower. The "A" code has a higher compression ration than the standard 289 so requires premium gasoline. . As far as I know it is the original engine, Ford didn't put the VIN on the engine in those days so no way to be 100% certain. The carb and intake manifold are aftermarket, not original, but as far as I know the engine is stock beyond that.
The standard 289 is the "C" code with a 2 barrel and lower compression ration and will run on regular gas. It puts out 200 horsepower.
The top of the line 289 was the "K" code. It puts out 271 horsepower, has a 4 barrel, a hotter cam, and mechanical lifters and a higher compression ratio than the standard C code 289.
 
Yeah, those are expensive. Last battery I bought was for my 1965 Mustang, so very low tech, low demand use. The old battery was over 8 years old when it died......but only driven about 7,000 miles.
I think our Camry Hybrid uses an AGM 12 volt battery, a little tiny one that is in a small compartment in the trunk. That will be expensive to replace.

This reminds me…
My BIL owned a Chrysler Sebring convertible several years ago, and the battery was in a compartment in the left front wheel well in front of the tire, and behind a cover.
You could access the battery (to jump start, clean the terminals and connectors, etc.) from there by turning the wheels to the right, but you had to take the tire/wheel off to replace it.
One of the most inconvenient places I’ve ever seen for a car battery.
 
This reminds me…
My BIL owned a Chrysler Sebring convertible several years ago, and the battery was in a compartment in the left front wheel well in front of the tire, and behind a cover.
You could access the battery (to jump start, clean the terminals and connectors, etc.) from there by turning the wheels to the right, but you had to take the tire/wheel off to replace it.
One of the most inconvenient places I’ve ever seen for a car battery.
Reminds me of my mom's 1974 Buick Apollo. That was a Chevy Nova with a Buick name plate on it. To get to the right bank spark plugs, you had to remove the right front wheel, there was a flap in the inner fender to reach through to get to the plugs.
The Chevy Monza with a V-8 of that era was worse. You had to unbolt the engine and jack it up to get to the spark plugs.
 
It is an "A" code 289 V8 4 barrel 225 horsepower. The "A" code has a higher compression ration than the standard 289 so requires premium gasoline. . As far as I know it is the original engine, Ford didn't put the VIN on the engine in those days so no way to be 100% certain. The carb and intake manifold are aftermarket, not original, but as far as I know the engine is stock beyond that.
The standard 289 is the "C" code with a 2 barrel and lower compression ration and will run on regular gas. It puts out 200 horsepower.
The top of the line 289 was the "K" code. It puts out 271 horsepower, has a 4 barrel, a hotter cam, and mechanical lifters and a higher compression ratio than the standard C code 289.

Premium unleaded, or do you need to add booster to it…?
And I’m seeing a 10.3:1 compression ratio for that engine, so yea, it’ll probably knock around with regular.
What brand are the intake and the carb…?
Sorry for all the questions, but I’m an old car guy.
Years ago, I had these 2 friends that dropped a 327 Chevy small block into a ‘75 Vega. That thing was fun at the local track, but they never could get the rear suspension dialed in quite right and it would hop off the line about half the time.
Back in the day, my Pop owned a ‘57 Chevy with the Power Pack option. That option included a 4 bbl carb, upgraded heads and cam, and dual exhaust, which added about 20 hp. Some gold trim on the car denoted the Power Pack.
Nothin’ like the sound of a 4 bbl carb with the secondaries kicked in…!!! 🙂
Anyway, fun stuff…!
 
Reminds me of my mom's 1974 Buick Apollo. That was a Chevy Nova with a Buick name plate on it. To get to the right bank spark plugs, you had to remove the right front wheel, there was a flap in the inner fender to reach through to get to the plugs.
The Chevy Monza with a V-8 of that era was worse. You had to unbolt the engine and jack it up to get to the spark plugs.

I do remember hearing that about the Monza.
Don’t remember that about the Apollo, but yes, it was just a Buick Nova…!!!!! 😅
My Pop still owns a ‘71 Chevy Camper special with no A/C or power brakes. When I was a little kid I could stand with my feet touching the ground in the engine compartment between the right wheel well and the exhaust manifold…!!!!! 🤣
Oh, the memories…!!! 🙂
 

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