TR-Mission:Exploration of new worlds by Capt’n Wrongway Wendy-Complete

[Aussie Wendy]

Day 20 Fri 31st Misty moors

Our second day on Skye dawned cold and wet. We had a boat trip out to the Cuillens booked for later in the afternoon so thought we’d see how the day fared. After another hearty breakfast and lack of success at spotting otters, we rearranged our day from looking at white sand beaches of the west coast and headed over the bridge to the mainland and Eileen Doolan Castle.

The castle was based around a tower from the late 1300’s, built to defend the junction of the 3 lochs. It was held by Spanish troops as part of Jacobite uprising in 1719 when 3 British frigates sailed up loch and pounded it with canon fire. It stayed a ruin til 1912 when it was rebuilt by guesswork and inside is now typical of a country house in the 1930’s complete with all the personal belongings and photos still there. No pics allowed inside but the outside looked very atmospheric in the mist – shame about the modern white van in the way!



The entrance



Inside the very good AV introduction – thereafter we toured the rooms with lots of old furniture and personal belongings (as the family still stays here sometimes).



Another view with the bridge



After visiting the gift shop (also had a good café and loos), we drove around to Shiel Bridge and took the old Military Road over the moors to Glenelg. On the pass of Bealach Ratagain daffodils were still in bloom showing again just how late spring is this year.



In Glenelg we found my goal, the iron age brochs. Due to the rain mostly just explored the one closest to the road, Dun Telve. These are drystone towers and are some of the best preserved buildings of Iron Age found in northern Europe. We found this fascinating-the stones we were touching had been laid around 100BC – just mind boggling. They can form towers of up to 13m in height. They were possibly symbols of authority in the landscape and in some places village complexes grew up around them.

Here is a pic from the outside showing the standing half.



and a pic of what it might have looked like.



Showing the unique way there is a gap between the two walls that form the tower, which gets narrower as you go higher and is tied together with lintel stones. The gaps formed galleries which are thought to have contained cells and staircases to the higher levels.



Standing between the walls



We debated about lunch at the pub in Glenelg but it was quite a fancy menu – we just really felt like simple toasties or soup so skipped that. Here is a pic of the village.



And a view across to the island of Skye



We caught the Kylerhea ferry back across to the island – very sweet and one of the original ferries that linked the island to the mainland. This only runs in summer. Cars drive straight on and it swings around to offload.





DD was amused one of the ferry driver dogs was a friendly Scottish Terrier called Bobby.



We followed a long winding road back over the moors to the guesthouse.



From the local shop bought sandwiches and crisps and a tub of berries to eat in the guest sitting room for lunch before heading over to the village of Elgol for our boat trip. This was an even longer windy road and we almost mis-timed it. When we arrived the wind was howling, the sea was rolling and the owners said they were only making the run to drop off some overnight campers not the sightseeing trip and advised us not to come if we suffered from seasickness – it was a small, open to the elements, boat so we took their advice. The day before had been gorgeous they said - usually the boat stops to look at wildlife and you can arrange a half day where you go for a walk to the loch near the foot of the mountains and back. So, relieved we weren’t committed to a seasick-filled 2 hours, instead we went for a walk over the cliffs.

The village with the Cuillans on the horizon –where we would have been headed into.



The shingle beach



DH walking over the cliffs and he and DD. We were all rugged up for the boat trip but it was just as cold and blowy on the cliff top.





Close up of some of the fascinating succulent plants amongst the heather.



Last view.



We travelled back over the bleak headland (there were campers here – students doing some sample collections, but so exposed to the weather by the loch)



Had dinner at the old pub in Broadfoot recommended by our hosts, where we found a quiet, snug corner to have several drinks and a simple but good feed of steak pie and veg.

Our hikers were having a special catered dinner downstairs provided by our hosts but we had a sit in the garden before the sun set amongst the bluebells (another flower out two months late) and though we would have liked to stay awake we were just too tired to wait for the full sunset. It was lovely and peaceful sitting out on the rocks by the loch though, listening to the wind and the birds – including the cuckoo.

Daggy me has her eyes shut of course spoiling a great pic though DH just needed to move a little and frame it a little better….



Looking back at the guest house



Last view down the loch



Capt’n highlights: the Iron Age brochs, just sitting quietly absorbing the atmosphere-by the loch, on the cliffs, in the pub.
Capt’n lowlights: Missing out on the boat trip – if we’d known should have done it yesterday; feeling very cold and damp all day.

 

[zanzibar138]

I love all the ancient buildings and ruins in Europe, especially castles I love your misty photos of the castle, and the tower looks very interesting too.

Shame about the weather and that you missed out on your boat ride, but sounds like you had a nice afternoon of wandering instead

 

[PrincessInOz]

What a fantastic day; even if it was cold and damp.

What great pictures of the Broch.

 

[Aussie Wendy]

Day 21 Sat 1st June Otters and Monsters: part 1

Today was a pleasant day’s drive across to Loch Ness and around past Inverness and south to Kingussie to another guesthouse for 2 nights. The day began with pouring rain – we were so lucky that first day on Skye!

After breakie DD and I had the binoculars out looking for otters and saw what looked like a seal going up the loch – that’s an otter said Stuart, our host. We watched for a while but really had to pack. Take the binoculars to your room while you are packing Stuart said so we did.. and five mins later DD gave a squeal – they’re coming in close. So we ran to the window – two otters came right into shore and proceeded to forage amongst the seaweed and play. We watched for about 40 mins until they moved back out to sea – so exciting. The man who had been renting the self contained accommodation at the end of the guesthouse had been out early every am and late pm with a huge camera on a tripod trying to get pics and had left that morning-and Stuart said only saw a glimpse out on the loch - so we felt very lucky.

Otters at sea



Coming on shore



On guard



Cuddling



Reluctantly it was time to say our farewells. We crossed the bridge



and drove through a forested area before encountering much greener areas as we entered the Great Glen.

Our first stop was Urquhart Castle on the shores of Loch Ness. It had a great AV introduction about the history of the castle whose family declared for the crown and ended blowing it up rather than letting it fall into the hands of the Jacobites. It concluded with the curtains pulling back and revealing through a huge picture window the castle below on the loch – very effective.



The castle was very ruined though there were bits left from its various stages from a hill fort to the private residence of the Grant family. It wasn't the best castle we have explored as it was so ruined but it was in a magnificent location.



Learning about how dangerous arrows could be



DH swears he saw the Loch Ness monster….




Close up of Grant’s Tower



Love the daisies in the grass



We had lunch in their good café – toasted panini’s and then drove the short distance to the Loch Ness Experience.

This multi-lingual sign en route fascinated us



The entrance to the Loch Ness Experience



This was a bit corny and old fashioned I guess, but it told the story of the hunt for the monster using AV as you went from room to room, starting with the early myths then the scientific investigations including examples of ways conditions play tricks on your eyes (a deer with antlers swimming across – distant view – very monster-ish, close up obviously a deer!) to scams that people pulled. It went quite in depth explaining how sonar waves can be misled by swirling under water lake currents and bouncing off objects. The amount of things found in the bottom of lake over time was amazing too – a large boat, an aircraft during the wars etc. It was all fascinating and I can recommend to anyone interested in hearing all about the different scientific investigations and what they found and all the theories.

One of the exhibits



It formed part of a shopping complex – one room was full of toy nessies! DH and DD both bought a china Nessie to go on their desks at work.



Continuing on our way through pouring rain one minute, sun the next, we had a brief stop at the Caledonian Canal, then through Inverness (a grey stone city on the banks of a very attractive river) and across to the Clava Cairns, past the Culloden battlefield. Yes more ancient history – sorry – one of our pet faves.



These were really good. Three of them in a field. They date from the Neolithic Iron Age and were covered barrows (now open) surrounded by kerb stones and a circle of standing stones. Like the brochs I loved the fact you can touch stones (OK I know you probably shouldn’t) that have been handled by men around 3000 BC! It was a wonderful atmosphere here – very peaceful. Some of the stones had cup and bowl carvings on them. Also some rocks were of different colour and composition and they were deliberately used to make a pattern of slices in the barrows. The chambered passages were all angled to face the mid winter sun and on the shortest day the sun pierced right into the chamber and they had a special white stone at the back to help reflect the light – pretty cool!

An explanation





Close up of one of the standing stones



The central cairn which had no entrance



Showing cup marks like the ones in the museum in Edinburgh



Touching a stone!



By the entrance to the south-west passage grave



Continued part 2

 

[zanzibar138]

Oh wow how lucky were you with the otters! They're so cute

Just love the views from the castle, and the ruins all look very interesting. I'm a sucker for ancient ruins too

 

[Aussie Wendy]

Day 21 Part 2

Road works confounded us on the way back out (throughout the trip we found roads, roundabouts and exceeding slack signage, like detour signs that abandon you, was all awful). Anyway we arrived early evening in Kingussie-a small quant town on the railway line north, and our converted Victorian guesthouse, Arden House.



More lovely owners and we had a delightful room on the ground floor including a separate bedroom for DD. This is rare for a guesthouse as it could sleep 4.

Our room with a double and single bed



DD’s little room



Complimentary whisky (yuck!! sorry)



We were recommended the Silverfjord pub in town for dinner (also recommended on TA so I had it starred already).

A view of the town’s back streets on the way to the pub



And a sign that we liked.



The pub (thanks to the internet as we neglected to take one)



It was a lovely casual pub – and my God, the food – so, so good. I had salmon with a crunchy crust in a creamy dill sauce with roast root vegies, DD had lamb shanks with watercress and DH had steak and chips. We shared two deserts – a rhubarb tart and a chocolate brownie- both divine! More glasses of the excellent cider – which has become our drink of choice this visit.
Inside the dining room



My salmon



DD’s lamb shank



DH’s steak and chips



The rhubarb tart



And chocolate brownie.



We went for a wander around town afterwards then home to catch up on the internet and what had been happening at home.
Captn’s highlights: Otters!! Loch Ness, Clava Cairns, our guest house and dinner
Captn’s Lowlights: The rain. The poor Scottish road systems in their cities.

 

[zanzibar138]

What a lovely looking little town and your accommodation

 

[PrincessInOz]

Wendy - What gorgeous food! And the scenery is even better. I was laughing when I read that it was raining at Loch Ness. What.a.surprise.

Great accommodation and those otters are great. Thanks for sharing.

 

[Aussie Wendy]

Day 22 Local and not so local wildlife Post 1

We ordered breaky for 8am. Each room had its own labelled table in the dining room and each room was labelled for a type of whisky. We were in Dalwhinnie. It was the usual serve yourself cereal, juice and fruit (we tucked into lots of fresh berries).

Views of the dining room – love the décor





For a change DD and I had pancakes for breakfast that came with sour cream and maple syrup and fresh fruit. DH had the cooked breakfast but not the black pudding. His verdict- the sausages were nicer than Skye’s but the bacon was saltier! Scottish oat cakes weren’t bad.





DD and I had a booking for a horse ride in the pm-unfortunately the more advanced ride that would suit DD who can ride properly was only on once a week so she joined me on an amble. The only ride was in the pm which meant we had to visit the Highland Wildlife Park I had starred in the am. I would have preferred being able to spend all afternoon til closing there. It didn’t open til 10am so first we went and had a look at an Osprey nest near Loch Insh that Stuart from Skye had told us to have a look out for. We are sure we saw the bird flying from the nest across the lake.



Osprey nest and Osprey





We were first through the gates at the Wildlife Park which has a drive through savannah area then you can walk around other exhibits. This was brilliant place and I can highly recommend it to anyone especially those with children. On the drive through we saw

Eastern Kiang



Yak (we think!)



European Bison



European Elk-smile for the camera




Red Deer



And polar bears (??) wallowing in a muddy dam




This one loved his blue bucket





More bears later. Leaving the safari zone we parked and walked the three trails.



Red Panda



Wolverine (reminded us of Tassie Devils in their ferociousness)





Amur Tiger. The female was kept away about to give birth. Dad was constantly on the prowl.







Artic Fox still in its winter white-so cute.



Snowy Owl



Continued

 

[Aussie Wendy]

Post 2

Back to the polar bears-lookout on foot this time. They are both young males and will be introduced to females when they are old enough. Also learnt their skin is black and the fur is transparent so it reflects the snow in winter and in the wild they get muddy in summer just like these were.



Play fighting







After this shot the bear proceeded to roll over and over down the hill just like a kid. It just seemed weird seeing polar bears playing in the grass and in a muddy dam.



Turkmenian Markhor – love their twirly horns



A Pellas cat – also pregnant so kept away from close show. I never knew these even existed. It looked like a fluffy Persian cat to us!



The info board: they were discovered in the C18th and are found now in Iran, China, Russia, Mongolia and Tibet living in rocky deserts and barren mountainous areas.



Snow Monkeys – the original monkeys of See no Evil, Hear no Evil, Speak no Evil. Mother and baby.







And a young one watching



Their enclosure overlooked by the café.



Eagle Owls



The European beavers are nocturnal but was interested to see the dam they had built themselves and the time lapse pics showing how they had built and rearranged their homes. (I don’t think I even knew there were beavers in Europe!) In 2009 the first European beavers were reintroduced into the wild in the Knapdale Forest in Scotland. If it’s successful they will reintroduce them to elsewhere in England. The Pine Martin wouldn’t keep still for a pic and was in a deeply shaded wood. I have read about them in books and was never sure what it looked like – answer like a stoat or ferret.

A Scottish Wildcat – looking like a moggy.



A Chinese Goral that just startled DD by charging at the fence as she stooped to take a pic.



In Wolf Wood, also partly closed off because of young mothers.





Looking out towards Kingussie and Ruthven Barracks from a lookout in the park.



We grabbed a quick bite in another very good café (venison hotdogs) and had a quick browse in the gift shop. We were impressed with how well spread out this park was with large natural enclosures for the animals and how it could cater for a lot of people without feeling crowded.

Then it was off to Rothiemurchus Estate – 8 miles up the road. In the shop where we got our receipts from our on-line prepayment and directions, our server was a trainee who spoke very little English. I am blaming that on the fact I led us several miles down the wrong road to a lake instead of having to just cross the road from the shop!

However we made it and DH had a stroll while DD and I mounted our Highland ponies and rode through the heather. DD enjoyed it the most up front with the senior assistant who was giving an informative commentary but I was at the back with the second assistant who was leading a little Shetland Pony to give it some exercise and nagged our group to constantly “keep your heels down,” “keep your back straight,” like we were in lessons rather than just an enjoyable ramble. We startled a wild deer in the heather which caused DD’s pony to shy. My mare was a stag pony – which means during the shooting season she spends time carrying the shot stags back down from the hills so is used to the smell of deer and didn’t twitch when she scented the deer. It would be a spectacular ride when all the heather is out in purple. Apparently Adventures by Disney book the entire stable out when they come (I had read about Rothiemurchus actually when reading the ABD itinerary) and part of the agreement is the guides must wear traditional Scottish dress which they think is a laugh-and very good for business.







The view from here



We debated about heading up to the Cairngorm funicular railway afterwards and in retrospect wish we had done this (you can’t get out at the top just see the view from the station- this is the highest railway in the UK), but DH wasn’t keen and we were all tired so called it a day and headed home. We made one short detour to Ruthven Barracks built by the English against the highlanders but occupied by Jacobites when in retreat after they were defeated at Culloden. This looks pretty from pics lit up at night but we were always fast asleep by the time it got properly dark (c 11.30pm).



View back towards the town.



Back at the guest house it was nice to have a hot chocolate and watch a movie before walking back down town. It was an easy decision to go back to the Silverfjord – the main dining room was full but they let us sit in the games room. This time DH had the lamb, DD the salmon and I had a frittata with goats cheese salad. Then home to bed. The highland air is making us very sleepy!

Captn’s highlights: the Wildlife Park.
Captn’s lowlights: really can’t think of any.

 

[PrincessInOz]

What a great place. Love all the animals. Pity the ride wasn't more challenging for DD but it looks like you all had fun anyway.

Great animal pics, Wendy.

 

[zanzibar138]

Another great day out!

I am a very experienced horse-rider too, but I LOVE going on those ambly sight-seeing rides, just letting the horse do all the work Shame about the crabby lady trying to teach a lesson! I just love the ponies! I much prefer the solid, stockier type horses to the skinny old thoroughbreds

The wildlife park had such a variety of animals in it! Very cute pics

 

[Aussie Wendy]

Thanks both. It was a nice ride - yeah I just got the crabby one down my end. None of us were complete novices so we didn't need the lessons. The highland ponies were lovely ponies - some were quite big - more of a horse than a pony really but apparently they were all true ponies.

So Zanzibar do we need a riding-meet? Though its getting harder to find ones still running after the insurance issues. We had a great one just by us (we found our block of land bringing DD out for lessons) but they sold and the new owners had no idea and ran what was a thriving business into the ground so now its just a hobby farm type property.

Not long now PIO - how do you find the time to keep dropping into the boards? I hope you have a fantastic trip. You must be getting very excited. I have been keeping up with most of your posts on the DL site but haven't posted much.

 

[PrincessInOz]

Not long now PIO - how do you find the time to keep dropping into the boards? I hope you have a fantastic trip. You must be getting very excited. I have been keeping up with most of your posts on the DL site but haven't posted much.

Would you believe that the only thing left for me to do is pack? I've already sorted out DS' clothes. Mine are about 3/4 done and DH will do his this weekend. We'll pull out the bags and then work it out this weekend.

I'm trying hard to get to next weekend before getting too excited.

 

[zanzibar138]

So Zanzibar do we need a riding-meet? Though its getting harder to find ones still running after the insurance issues. We had a great one just by us (we found our block of land bringing DD out for lessons) but they sold and the new owners had no idea and ran what was a thriving business into the ground so now its just a hobby farm type property.

I'd totally be up for that

Would you believe that the only thing left for me to do is pack? I've already sorted out DS' clothes. Mine are about 3/4 done and DH will do his this weekend. We'll pull out the bags and then work it out this weekend.

I'm trying hard to get to next weekend before getting too excited.

PIO it sounds like you deserve to start getting excited

 

[Aussie Wendy]

Day 23 Raising a wee dram in farewell

After another delicious breaky we got away around 9.15 driving through Grantown-on-Spey and then over to Glenlivet and the distillery. This had a really informative Visitor’s Centre with a museum on its history (the first licensed malt whisky producer in Scotland after making it illegally for many years and the second largest producer after Glenfiddich). They had a free whisky tour with tastings. Loved the distilling rooms – very light with lots of glass and coppery funnel-shaped stills (no pics allowed except in the museum). Learnt about every stage of the process and as there were three of us swopping we got to taste 12, 15 and 18 year old Scotch. Different years are matured in different barrels-the 15 year old is aged in Bourbon barrels whilst the 18 year old in Sherry barrels. I thought I’d prefer the 18 yo but actually was the 15 yo I liked most – though not fussed on any really. Bought some pressies for others in the gift shop.








Stopped on the outskirts of town at the Livet bridge, the old pack bridge and a distant view of the distillery.





then crossed the mountains passing through a ski area looking very dismal out of season and very barren looking moors that would look lovely when the heather is out.



As we neared the east coast headed back into fertile green fields with drystone walls. We stopped in the town of Ballater for a picnic lunch (Balmoral Castle is just up the road). Watched a full Scottish pipe band piping a funeral. Wish I’d been quicker and snapped a shot before they brought the coffin out of the church but once we realised that it was for a funeral it felt too disrespectful taking pics-not that that stopped hordes of tourists gawking and videoing. We also donated our secondhand winter gear here to a charity shop.

Then it was over to Stonehaven and Dunnattor Castle, supposedly the inspiration for the castle in Brave. Found all the oldies meandering along so slowly on very good roads (not the little lanes but normal roads) a bit frustrating – doing 40mph instead of the limit 60!

Anyway along the coast here was very scenic – green fields to the edge of cliffs with cows grazing-very reminiscent of Cornwall and Devon and much softer scenery than the moors.

We parked and walked down to the castle – it’s perched on an outcrop of rock with a small isthmus linking it – a bit like Tintagel in Cornwall – and a big ravine along one side.



We enjoyed clambering around the castle – this was where the honours of Scotland were sent from Edinburgh and then smuggled out by a maid to avoid them being destroyed by Oliver Cromwell. From the 14thC the castle was owned by the Earl Marischal, one of the 3 highest office bearers in Scotland. Mary Queen of Scots stayed here and a 15thC poet claimed William Wallace set fire to the chapel with the English garrison inside.









Some of the castle ranges were still standing and in one part they had recreated a drawing room with its timber ceiling.



The bread ovens and beer making vats were still visible. I am guessing this is the well?



The Whig’s Vault was where the covenanters (including women and children) were marched from Edinburgh Castle. Heaps died along the way and in the vault – which we discovered quite thick with mud and damp and awful. 167 were imprisoned in the end in the vault, 25 attempted an escape but all but 7 were caught. Those left were put in ships bound for New England and most died en route-very sad.





Interestingly the loos were hidden behind and built into one of the old bits of wall! We had a sit for a while just to soak up the atmosphere and enjoy the sun.



Nesting seagull



After we left we strolled along the cliff tops. Looking back



The cove nearby



A pod of dolphins went past.





We enjoyed sitting on the cliff tops watching and listening to the birds. This pic shows the tunnels you go through to enter the castle



Panorama pic



Wildflowers



Around 5pm it was time to head off. Got stuck forever on the A90 ring road as I feared. Cursing their bad habit of putting a pedestrian crossing on a road 100m up from a roundabout so traffic jams block the roundabout. Still got petrol and delivered the hire car to the rental cars about 10 past 6 so not too bad and time to do some bag repacking, buy dinner (quite nice actually and they even had a pub here with a beer garden – take note LAX). Did not enjoy queuing for ages standing up in a stuffy corridor though after they took our boarding pass and before we could actually get on board (we stood queuing while the plane disembarked passengers and luggage). The flight to Gatwick was quick at least (1.5 hrs), got bags quickly and caught a cab to the Travelodge nearby. They gave us a family room with a Queen and a proper single bed for DD – all for the on-line prebooked price of £17 – not bad! (and you can see in the pic with a mattress on the floor it sleeps 4). It was 11pm by now and we had to be up at 4am so we went straight to sleep. Bye bye Scotland. I have enjoyed visiting you.



Capt’n Highlights: Whisky tour, Dunnottar Castle.
Capt’n Lowlights – traffic and planes – necessary evils.

 

[zanzibar138]

What lovely scenery for your last day, and the weather not bad either Love the castle location!

 

[PrincessInOz]

You went to Glenlivet??? WOW!


And that's fantastic scenery and how lucky to see the dolphins.

 

[Aussie Wendy]

(I’m back after a bit of a hiatus – Life – just gets in the way and after a few ratty weeks nice to be looking back at a great holiday.)

Day 24 Tues 4 June Hola Seville

Today was mostly a travel day (darn Transporter-still not functioning so still using old fashioned flying tubes with wings.) All of us wanted to keep sleeping at 4am but no, time for a quick cuppa, get dressed and out the door. Despite the hour, the taxi was early and only cost us £6. We grabbed a croissant and muffin for the plane for breaky from Pret-a-Manger on “the other side”- so fast, no customs or immigration, just a quick visit to the Easyjet girl for bag drop-off who checked our on-line printed boarding pass and we were done. It was only 2.5 hrs flight-I just love how close you are to everywhere exciting – Istanbul, Berlin, Moscow, Marrakesh, Santorini (sorry travel poster ads got to me in the airport) in the UK.

Outside Seville airport our young taxi driver and I got into a voluble conversation – he in broken English and lots of hand waving and I in broken French (which sort of sounds like Spanish) and even more hand waving (and the production of a handy Google map) as we finally established that we didn’t want him to take us to the village of Gelves, 50 miles out of Seville but to the Apartment Conde de Gelves that was in La Macarena district. By the time this was established (and the taxis lined up behind us were honking crankily at us to stop debating and get moving), he and I were best buddies so I sat in the front and we kept up a voluble conversation mostly still in hand gestures (while he drove of course!) covering what you do with every taxi driver- the state of the economy, his business, differences between our cities and the weather. DD and DH sat in the back bemused – you just have to get the hand waves and shrugs right!

Our apartment was in the maze of narrow streets north of the centre and once again, in the middle of major road works, so we had to park in a different street but our friendly cabbie directed us. Given the nondescript door in the nondescript street...





....it was a good job the manager of the apartment complex arrived the same time as we did to let us in. Behind the wooden door was a typical cool oasis with a central atrium. Our apartment was off the second tier balcony-a small lounge and dining, kitchen with washing machine/dryer and master bedroom with tiny ensuite toilet and washbasin downstairs, and a second double bedroom, bathroom and door out to a private deck upstairs. While dim, downstairs it was lovely and cool after the bright heat of outside and had air con. Gorgeous.

The atrium



Outside our door



The lounge



Our bedroom



The main bathroom



Our private deck



Almost straight away DH and I headed out to forage for food and find the nearest supermarket we had been briefed about by our friendly, helpful, manager girl. Successful other than fresh milk (only long-life - never did find fresh milk anywhere), we navigated our way back, having to take a circuitous route around the road works, and proceeded to have home-made panini’s on our deck before a siesta in the lovely cool bedroom while our washing washed. This seemed to be an area with more locals in it – which is what I always try to find when we rent an apartment rather than being in the heart of tourist-central.





So far everywhere was typical of a Mediterranean city - an amalgam of Italy and Greece with a touch of Istanbul – a maze of windy, cobbled streets, old houses and renovated palaces, lots of bars with men sitting outside, small cafes, plant filled atriums behind wooden doors and high walls, the smell of sewage and fresh baked goods. A very distinctive amalgam I love. This apartment complex was a manor house dating from 1635 with its owners including several dukes. It was restored and turned into apartments in 2007.

Around 4.30 pm I stirred us up and we decided to make our first proper outing an exploratory. We headed off in what I thought was the right direction south to the Plaza de la Encarnacion-but which turned out to be north-east, as I realised when we arrived at the Alameda de Hercules.



Oops.
Then we walked in what I thought was the opposite direction and ended up by the river to the north west?
Double oops.

Finally, having walked in a huge loop, we arrived 5 mins away from the apartment at the Plaza de la Encarnacion with its giant sculpture that Sevillians apparently love to hate – we loved it. The largest wooden structure in the world currently-the Metropol Parasol.



The Antiquarium below was still open and for only €2.10 in we went. This turned out to house some of the best Roman remains I have seen with excellent displays and AV and headset info. Discovered when they were excavating it shows several different layers of buildings from the C1st – C13th showing the life of the town as it changed and grew with bits of older buildings incorporated into the newer.

Just a few of the pics:

A 1st Century salting factory still with the tubs where fish was soaked in brine (the sea used to be a lot closer in those days).



By the next century the trade workshops were taken over by private houses eg the House of the Nymph with some excellent mosaics:



The beautiful Mosaic of the Birds.



Plan of the house showing how it would have been decorated.



The C4th House of the Columns, a much larger more important house than those that it was built from.



Funerary busts



From here we went up into the Parosol for the views over Seville. Around 9 pm by now and it was very quiet. The close up detail of the structure was fascinating. Took a lot of pics! But here are just an edited few.



View to the north where we are staying



Views south to the cathedral



DD and DH



We were still tired so decided to skip a night out and instead picked up some fresh pasta and a jar of sauce from a shop en route home – getting disorientated again finding our street (the story of the next 2 days). I blame the road works as you had to detour around several different streets to get through, all in different directions and - as we discovered – they kept changing the streets that were closed off and access points over night - and they all looked the same to us!! After going round and round in circles, we found it finally. Dinner at home was delicious – I still can’t work out why we can’t buy pasta sauces in a jar as good as those in Europe…and so to bed. Big day sightseeing tomorrow.

Capt’n Highlights: We’re in Spain! Roman mosaics. Good food. Good apartment.
Capt’n Lowlights: Wasting half the day lazing indoors – but it was nice to be lazy!

 

[Aussie Wendy]

Day 25 – Our poor tired feet

In true Spanish style we still ended up not getting to bed til 11pm last night and with shutters closed it was so dark and quiet in our bedrooms we slept til 9.30am!! Unheard of for us especially DH who is normally roaming the house at 5.00 am.

So by the time we had breakfasted and showered it was 10.30 when we ventured out. Managed to get us lost again so we ended up reaching the city centre via a detour to the east this time and through the Barrio Santa Cruz – which is interesting and full of tourists and tourist shops (unlike our area). Saw some nice tiles and other souvies and reached the entrance finally to the Alcazar.




It was only a 10 minute queue despite the late hour and we spent several enjoyable hours poking around the rooms and gardens. The Alcazar was the residence of the Arabic caliphs from the 900’s and since has been rebuilt and remodelled especially by the Catholic monarchs King Ferdinand and Isabella (they are ubiquitous throughout Spain) who set up court in the 1480’s while they undertook their reconquest of Granada. It is said it contains some of the best examples of Mudejar (work made by Moors working under their Christian conquerors who supposedly had “converted” to Christianity). It is still the official Seville residence of the Spanish King and Queen.

Entrance gate



The Patio de la Monteria where the court met before hunting expeditions.



Sample stucco and tiles from the oldest part of the palace built in 1340’s.



This painting is the earliest known on the discovery of the Americas (by Alejo Fernandez painted in 1530’s). It shows the Virgin protecting the explorers including Columbus and native Americans.



Even the corridors are highly decorated.



In the Palace of Don Pedro (the Cruel), 1300’s. Some of the most beautiful plasterwork. Built of perishable ceramics-plaster and wood-to obey the Quran’s prohibition against eternal structures which are reserved only for the Creator.

The beautiful Patio de las Munecas (Patio of the Dolls)



Close up



Patio de las Doncellas





Looking towards the entrance to the Salon de Embajadores (Hall of the Ambassadors) – Pedro 1 throne room.





Detail of the arch



Looking up at the gilded wooden dome that symbolises the universe and was added in 1427.





DD and I in front of the Arco de Pavones in the Salon de Embajadores.



Arches beyond arches



The cupola ceiling in this room represents a starlit sky and is in the Prince’s Quarters-they think it was the Queen’s bedroom.



More detail



Close-up of one of the highly carved and decorated passage ceilings.



In Carlos V Salon de Tapices with 8th century tapestries showing Carlos 1st’s 1535 conquest of Tunisia.



Love the hat on the ostrich!



Detail of 1570’s frieze




In the gardens – Queenslanders note the Jacaranda tree. Lots of the plants we saw were the same as we have in Australia.